Normally I just say to them...(For the extended service, paint/rust protection, etc).. Show me statistics on where this saves the consumer money and doesn't make the dealer money? I said, you wouldn't be trying to sell me on this useless BS if it didn't make you money. They drop it...!

 

I got my 2018 Road King Special in March of 2018. One dealer here doesn't put prices on their bikes and wanted "mid-$20s" for a stock bike. I thanked them and walked out and my wife asked why I didn't try to negotiate. I told her that if they priced it that high any negotiation I would do would probably just get me back to MSRP. That weekend I went to another dealer who prices their bikes at MSRP but adds on the set up fee. When I showed them on the website that they are reimbursed for it they acted surprised and unaware of that. They offered to cut the fee in half and I got another $1000 off and a passenger backrest included. The experience was fine and I wouldn't mind buying from them again. My advice is to make a fair offer and let them decide if they want the sale or not. If there are any other dealers you don't mind traveling to that would probably be better as well. You can call around to see if other dealers will be willing to discuss price or negotiate over the phone. That's what I did and the salesman I worked with was happy to finalize a price over the phone and I set up an appointment to come in and buy the bike.

 

 

I also had a dealer tell me it was a law they had to charge a $400.00 administrative fee. He said if he didn't charge me he could be charged with discrimination. He claimed everyone had to pay it.

 

You are negotiating wrong. Why are you starting at MSRP and trying to go down, it is a losing endeavor. Start at dealer cost and go up from there. Here this link should help.

https://seedealercost.com/power-spor...e/manufacturer A Road King Special costs the dealer $19164.00. Of course they have to make some profit on the deal but it gives you an idea of how to start along with figuring out what your trade is worth - no you are not going to get KBB trade for your bike, you are going to get wholesale trade numbers.

 

This doesn't matter when you're negotiating the out-the-door price. You both agree to a number.

They can split up into whatever magic fees they want from there. You're paying the number you agreed to, that's all you care about.

 

I always thought "dealer prep & freight" was something a dealership does to:

1. Hope people don't notice/don't care/aren't savvy enough to negotiate and they end up with $600 more on a sale

2. Is a sales tactic to say "OK, what if I take out prep & freight?" to make it seem like you're winning and they're giving you a deal.

Here's some advice:

- Like people above said, if you're buying a bike, it should always be eliminated before you sign any paperwork. If they don't drop it, you've done something wrong.

- The best advice is knowing what the dealer pays for the bike (like someone said above). That's their break even price. Everything above that is their profit. Start at that price and let them go up from it. Ideally, you meet somewhere in the middle of MSRP and invoice price. So if a bike is tagged for $25,000 and the invoice price in $19,000, look to get the bike for around $22,000 OTD. It's not gospel but I've always found it as something to aim for.for.

- Once again touching on what someone already said, just tell them to give you an OTD (out the door) price right off the bat. It's the easiest, most transparent way to know what you're paying. Some dealers will write down their offer but it doesn't include things like prep/delivery and you'll see that on the paperwork in the finance office. They'll almost dare you to back out when you're a couple signatures away from a shiny new Harley.

- A good salesman knows an easy target when they see one. What I mean by that is that they know nothing about the bike which means they don't know anything about what the bike should cost a buyer. Do some homework before walking in. Know what the same bike you want is selling for.

- Don't be "Mr. Nice Guy." The dealership is trying to get every dime out of you and will do it any way they can. Don't be afraid to lie or exaggerated about what other dealers have offered you. When I bought my Road Glide, I told the eventual salesman that the previous dealership offered me $23,250 with bars, grips, and a backrest thrown in. It was actually $23,250 with grips/bars/backrest bought separate (so a little over $24,000 OTD) but the business card he wrote the offer on didn't specify that the parts were separate. So the final dealer brought it down to $22,750 with the parts thrown in. A little lie was certainly worth $500 in that case. I don't feel bad about it!

- Be patient. Don't be afraid to wait, walk, and tell them you're going elsewhere to checkout their bikes. You're the one in control! They need your money to run a successful business, you probably don't need a Harley (although you do want one!).

 

In iowa, the DOT dictates that if a dealer charges a doc fee as part of their retail sales, ALL retail sales have to pay the doc fee. They are not allowed to waive that fee once they've implemented charging it. They view it as discriminatory if they waive it on certain deals. I just tell them to find the money somewhere else in the deal.

The doc fees are not required in wholesale transactions.

 

New RK?
Offer them $6,000 under MSRP for your OTD price. Prepare to walk, then them chasing you as they "change their mind."
Tell them if you get into your car in their parking lot to leave, then the new offer will be $7,000 under...
Watch them run!