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I wouldn't even make a warranty claim on wheel bearings with Harley, because they'd just put the same thing back in. If you don't have the inclination to change them yourself, at least do some research and find bearings with a decent reputation and have an independent shop put them in. From what a lot of riders have posted on this forum, you're taking what I'd consider an unacceptable risk with OEM bearings. Plus they're more expensive than the best brands, not counting ceramics. Whatever I get, I always pop the rubber/plastic seals off and at least check for enough grease. Nearly all the cheap bearings (some not so cheap) I've seen for several years have very little grease that I clean out and replace with a good quality synthetic, and plenty of it; I've never had a bearing failure on a bearing I installed, and I don't change them with every tire change, I'll skip a tire change if they still look like new inside, and mine always do, I never spray water at the bearings, that's probably the biggest culprit in wrecking otherwise good bearings. I've bought a lot of used bikes, and haven't seen a clean wheel bearing in one yet, so many people flush the grease and push grit into the bearings with pressure washing.
I've read that newer Harley bearings have metal seals over the plastic ones; you can't remove those without destroying them, so the only place I'd install that kind of wheel bearing is in a garbage can. I've thrown new bearings away that came installed in a new wheel, they don't meet my standards, I don't use them, period.
You can select your bike year/model on jpcycles.com and search bearings and it will give the brands and part numbers that fit your bike. Others used to, might still, I think Amazon used to, but they don't now. You can still find the Allballs number on J&P and check that number in Amazon.
The original bearings might not be the best type for the application, but good quality ones on my NT have lasted twice the distance the cheap Chinese originals, and felt perfect at the last tire change.
Ball bearing disintegrated, causing the wheel to "tilt" when riding. This "tilt" caused the brake rotor to rub on the caliper mount, transferring soft aluminum onto the rotor's swept surfaces. Then, the soft aluminum transferred onto the brake pads seen here. Once the ***** had decided to leave the wheel, the ride became very "exciting." The wheel was oscillating back and forth quite rapidly. (Felt like I had 2 wheel steering, with the rear outa control.) As my speed slowed, it got more and more violent. (Bare in mind, this failure occurred 120 miles from home.)
Can't really say if there was sufficient grease or not. You be the judge. Notice the inner race has come out of the outer race as there's no bearings to keep them concentric. All this was covered under factory warranty.
Parts replaced~
Rear wheel
brake rotor
brake pads
axle
spacer
*Updated* bearings. (Dunno what brand nor supplier.) I interviewed the tech that did the work. He only mentioned "It's an updated bearing set." He also said that he's seen this before.
So, this occurred on a 2016 Dyna Lowrider with 6200 miles, that has never been wet. No rain, no power washing, no any washing of any kind. No 2-up riding. (I weigh 220 in gear.) I DO ride fairly fast when out on the open road, especially riding solo.
Last edited by NORTY FLATZ; Oct 7, 2019 at 08:35 PM.
Reason: added stuff, ya know?
ESP covered my rear wheel bearings - 2014 Limited - 117,000. Got a flat in the rear tire, and when they changed the tire the discovered the bad bearings. Tire & Wheel covered the tire.
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