Passenger back rest modification for moving back?
I’d like to move it 2 inches back. I bought an adjustable (angle) one and thought the problem was solved… Nope. When installed the adjusting ***** don’t allow you to open the bags FAIL.
So, has anyone modified one? What did you do?
I could heat it and bend it back ward.. the bad is it would probably damage the chrome where it’s seen and it would be leaning at an angle, not sure if that’s comfy.
OR
I could cut the the tab brackets horizontally the entire length just under the bar weld so it’s not seen. Then weld it back slid 2” forward. I could paint it afterword leaving what shows chrome and untouched. Any ideas?
Last edited by Rains2much; Oct 26, 2024 at 08:56 AM.
Id like to move it 2 inches back. I bought an adjustable (angle) one and thought the problem was solved Nope. When installed the adjusting ***** dont allow you to open the bags FAIL.
So, has anyone modified one? What did you do?
I could heat it and bend it back ward.. the bad is it would probably damage the chrome where its seen and it would be leaning at an angle, not sure if thats comfy.
OR
I could cut the the tab brackets horizontally the entire length just under the bar weld so its not seen. Then weld it back slid 2 forward. I could paint it afterword leaving what shows chrome and untouched. Any ideas?
Would the replacement of each adjustment **** with an allen bolt set-up resolve the the saddlebag lid impact with ****?
You will have just the one "set" position when done but in reality that should be all you need once you know the one position.
It may also look nicer or more factory.
*The rear saddle bag lids on a Road King Classic general work better if the TWO top mounting points are spaced away from the bike.
The back rest mounting kit sometimes came with some included thick spacers and longer bolts to replace and be used under the two top mounting brackets.
It pushed the two top mounting brackets on each side away from the bike.
The result is that saddlebags are angled out or pushed away from bike about 3/8 inch at the top.
You can get spacers and longer bolts or just stack some washers plus some longer bolts and get the same results.
Sometimes the included spacers were not enough and it required adding 2 or more washers under the rear mounting point.
**Many of the leather saddlebags have a nick on bike side lid edge of saddlebags because they would scrub when opening or they have a dig on lid...some folks never got or never installed the spacers.
If you look at online pictures of bags for sale there are numerous bags with the saddlebag hinge side edge damage or the ding on center of lid top because the spacers were never installed or used.
Would the replacement of each adjustment **** with an allen bolt set-up resolve the the saddlebag lid impact with ****?
You will have just the one "set" position when done but in reality that should be all you need once you know the one position.
It may also look nicer or more factory.
*The rear saddle bag lids on a Road King Classic general work better if the TWO top mounting points are spaced away from the bike.
The back rest mounting kit sometimes came with some included thick spacers and longer bolts to replace and be used under the two top mounting brackets.
It pushed the two top mounting brackets on each side away from the bike.
The result is that saddlebags are angled out or pushed away from bike about 3/8 inch at the top.
You can get spacers and longer bolts or just stack some washers plus some longer bolts and get the same results.
Sometimes the included spacers were not enough and it required adding 2 or more washers under the rear mounting point.
**Many of the leather saddlebags have a nick on bike side lid edge of saddlebags because they would scrub when opening or they have a dig on lid...some folks never got or never installed the spacers.
If you look at online pictures of bags for sale there are numerous bags with the saddlebag hinge side edge damage or the ding on center of lid top because the spacers were never installed or used.
It is a lot bigger than it seems in the pic. The bags closed are about 1/4 inch past half way on that gigantic 3 1/4” thick sun dial.
Last edited by Rains2much; Oct 26, 2024 at 10:55 AM.
I actually already completed fabbing my back rest. It turned out perfect.
I installed it with no bags. Put tape on them drew a line using a level as low as possible matching at both sides. Cut them horizontally. Removed from bike, Then I moved the top cut off section 1 3/4 inches back and the welded it. It moves the back rest at the exact same angle back 1 3/4 inches. I can add half to 1 spacers between the pad and the sissy bar if I want to adjust it. I painted over the welds with high temp silver paint and then did two coats of chrome paint. The line I welded is between the bags and the fender. You can only see it if you look straight down and youd never notice it if you werent looking for it. Im pretty pleased with myself.
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Mrs. Rains2much
I’m coming out of my skin wearing the dumb hat. Wife really wanted to go with some friends to this line dancing Western barn… ridiculous. I had to listen to hours of LED Zepplin to get that cancer of music outta my ear. Being in bands I was always the “Rocker”… couldn’t imagine any situation ever being that I’d wear a cowboy hat, be in a line dancing bar or hear that many songs about alcohol, break ups, dogs and tractors.
Last edited by Rains2much; Oct 29, 2024 at 05:56 AM.
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I was gonna just live with it for the trip and then come up with something better, but honestly once installed you don’t see the welds, it’s all hidden between the bags and seat. I like it. It doesn’t look any different installed and my wife said she couldn’t tell any difference. For me it kept her from smothering me and pushing me forward. We’ve done a thousand miles now since this backrest was done. Zero issues.
Last edited by Rains2much; Nov 23, 2024 at 06:38 AM.











