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Related to this, I just brought home a "95 inch build for a carbed Heritage. Dealer says after the break-in period when I bring it in for service, I'll need to pay for a dyno run/tune. If the bike is carbed, and it seems to be running in a well-tuned manner -- no burps, hesitations, or backfiring on decel, is the dyno thing necessary? Thanks.
Related to this, I just brought home a "95 inch build for a carbed Heritage. Dealer says after the break-in period when I bring it in for service, I'll need to pay for a dyno run/tune. If the bike is carbed, and it seems to be running in a well-tuned manner -- no burps, hesitations, or backfiring on decel, is the dyno thing necessary? Thanks.
If your confident in the bikes overall state of tune, no you dont need to pay for a dyno run. Though a dyno(assuming its an SAE unit equipped with afr spreadsheet)is a good way to verify results. Things like the state of your plugs, the color of your pipes near the exhaust port and the way the bike obviously responds are all good ways to ballpark the overall state of tune for your bike.
Anybody have any dyno figures from a 95 conversion? Looking for what the typical standard HD conversion puts out. Also interested in average cost.
Skip,
This is my dyno sheet from the dyno tune I had done about a month ago. I have the basic 95" StageII with 203 cams and SE Pro slip-on mufflers. Cost was $1400.00 installed
Just the straight 95" conversion, nothing else, meaning only jugs and pistons, and allowing for a good exhaust system, or at least slip-ons should make a bit over 70 HP and about 85 lbs/ft TQ. You can have your own jugs bored and just buy pistons and do it all for well under $500 if you do it yourself. Apart from that I don't know costs offhand, as well I'm in Canada so it wouldn't quite equate.
zigz
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