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Too fine a blade tends to make the plastic melt as far as getting the curve right it is best to use poster board and trace the stock curve and then move it down however much you want to take off.
Cut two of mine down over the years. After you get it sanded real smooth, take a small piece of t-shirt and just a drop of lacquer thinner. Make one swipe on edge the only. Do not let any run down windshield. This is why a say a drop on a small piece of cloth. The edge will become opaque like the original. Works great every time. Shine on
Aviator, I had the windshield off and ready for cutting when I stopped by a local glass shop. I think they had way too much car work to do because the guy wanted $95 bucks to do the job. I walked out, of course.
Nice job. I wanted to cut the windshield on my Sportster but I could never get up the courage to try it, so I just bought another bike with the right height windshield.
I did one for my Standard years ago. I have done several for friends as well. I just got the 3" taller windshield for the Road Glide and cut an inch out of that to get it where I needed it. I use a metal blade in the bandsaw to cut the lexan, then file smooth followed by sandpaper and finish with polishing compound. Comes up nice. One thing I found when cutting the windshield for the standard was that I followed the curved contour as I cut. This gave me a lot of helmet buffeting when I finally got the lexan to the right height. I got a new piece and started again, keeping a straiter line across the top of the piece. Took all the buffeting away.
Did mine also 2 days ago. Used my wood blade on my band saw to cut down a 9.5 shield. Traced a curved line 2.5 inches shorter and cut away. Used my belt sander to bring down to the line. Came out perfect. I just have to finish sand and polish the edge. A lot more air for the summer here in FL but no buffeting.I sill have my original that came with my ultra for the colder days or long trips.
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