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I have a Springer Classic with stock risers that seems to have a ridiculously easily stripped bolt hole. I am on my second set of risers and while I have changed my bars frequently, I find it ridiculous that I end up spending 75 bucks for a new riser, so I was thinking of using a heli coil. Has anyone used such on a riser before? Does anyone have any recommendations as to why a heli coil wouldn't work? Thanks.
I have a Springer Classic with stock risers that seems to have a ridiculously easily stripped bolt hole. I am on my second set of risers and while I have changed my bars frequently, I find it ridiculous that I end up spending 75 bucks for a new riser, so I was thinking of using a heli coil. Has anyone used such on a riser before? Does anyone have any recommendations as to why a heli coil wouldn't work? Thanks.
I've used Heli-coils in engine blocks and machinery for years, with Loch-Tite (red)of course. No reason it wouldn't work for you!
Also have a Springer, and have also stripped one of the bolt holes. Helicoils work just fine. Make sure the bars you are getting are knerled for a Springer, they are wider. If you get 'regular' bars you end up over tightening the bolts.....and stripping them.
Thanks for the replies. The bars I have seem to have a small section of the "knurled" part showing on the inside of the risers, but more than 3/4 are under the risers so I think it should work just fine. I have been riding with three bolts holding it together for a year now, but the apes put a bit more torque near the risers, so it seems to shift very easily-such as when I run across railroad tracks and suddenly find I am holding my grips either at my chest or bent so far forward my rear end is 6 inches above the seat.
With the apes you have a lot "riding" on the integrity of the risers, top clamp, and bolts. The time-sert is considered by many as the ultimate thread repair that ends up being stronger than the original threads.
I'm well aware of the features of Heli-Coils having used them first in a 1981 Lowrider and in some instances in a Top Sportsman/Pro Stock race car.
However, IMO,for johnnyhumble'stype of repair I would suggest using the time-sert.
What are the specific advantages of TIME-SERT over Helicoil?[/b]
TIME-SERT is a thin wall, self locking , solid bushing steel insert with positive placement.
The TIME-SERTÂŽ inserts have a flange, which will give them a positive placement on installation for âaccurate specific depthsâ. This ensures that the insert does not wind down into the threaded hole. TIME-SERTs are solid bushing and self locking. TIME-SERT being a solid bushing insert gives it added strength. TIME-SERTs have no prongs to deal with down in the hole which can be a problem in deep holes. TIME-SERTs are self-locking having an actual locking feature which will prevent them coming out when a bolt is removed. TIME-SERTs are timed internal to external, which give them a thin wall for tight applications but added strength over the coil styles.
Thin wall, self locking , solid bushing steel insert with positive placement.
Customers have asked if they may also use LoctiteÂŽ adhesives for additional strength. Yes you may due to the solid wall design. There is no danger of loctite passing thru the threads of the insert and locking up the bolt as in coil types.
Before starting out go to your fav. machine shop such as MSC Industrial Supply Co. and look up "Keylocking Thread Repair Solid Inserts" than look up the size you need or call the company. These are much better than the alturnitive. We never use Heli-Coils unless it is for a chair or desk. You may find them [here] to start looking. Read the directions for install.
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