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Questions about engine break in.

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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:51 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Deluxe Rider
...Also has anyone used Royal Purple break in oil when breaking in their bike?
Actually, RP (and a couple others) seem to suggest not using synthetic products during the break-in period.

Enjoy the new bike!
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Deluxe Rider
Hi all. New member here. I'm about to be the proud owner of a 2009 Softail Deluxe and I have a few questions. I have been told two different tales when it comes to engine break in, One was that I should ride for short distances at low RPM and then let the engine completely cool off and then do it again for the first 1000 miles. The other is that I should just watch the RPMs for the first 1000 miles but otherwise just ride it. Which is better? Also has anyone used Royal Purple break in oil when breaking in their bike? Thanks.

Gavin
Low RPM (lugging)is no good during breakin.Actually it's never good.During the first 100 mi. or so try not to maintain a steady RPM( like riding 20 miles at the same speed)City riding is the best.I always try to "rollercoaster" the RPM's in every gear.Don't be afraid to bring up the RPM's.Higher is better than lower.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:07 PM
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For break in you don't want any oil with superior lube qualities. You risk glazing the cylinders or polishing the peaks off in the hone marks. Either one will screw the break in. Syn 3 is not detrimental enough to cause problems as it's no a full syn. If the RP oil you are using has moly in it, you don't want that in there. Slight metal to metal contact between the rings and barrel is needed to seat them, and you want that to happen as soon as possible. Done right 3-500 miles should do it easy. Once break in has occured this metal to metal contact will be almost none existant, even with dino. I'll STFU now.
Ron
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by beary
I agree, there is no advantage to using syn oil before 1000 miles, but there is a risk of not seating the rings. In fact, it won't hurt to go the first 2500 w/o syn oil, but at least go the 1000.

Beary
Guys all S&S motors come with Mobil1Vtwin as factory fill. All CVO bikes come with SYn3 as factory fill. Porsche, Mercedes,Aston Martin, Ferrarri, Chevrolet Corvette, Maserati, Rolls Royce all come with synthetic factory fill. You will also find your rings have 95% of their initial wear in the first 50 miles. Also, heat cycling the castings is a very good practice if you can do it and costs nothing.
 
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:15 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by rbabos
For break in you don't want any oil with superior lube qualities. You risk glazing the cylinders or polishing the peaks off in the hone marks. Either one will screw the break in. Syn 3 is not detrimental enough to cause problems as it's no a full syn. If the RP oil you are using has moly in it, you don't want that in there. Slight metal to metal contact between the rings and barrel is needed to seat them, and you want that to happen as soon as possible. Done right 3-500 miles should do it easy. Once break in has occured this metal to metal contact will be almost none existant, even with dino. I'll STFU now.
Ron

Ron: The GroupIV oils won't do that either. I broke my bike in on syn3 because it is a dino base stock. The only oil I would not use for break in is a Group V POE like Redline. Syn3 has a very low moly count if any so it is a fine break in oil. But several engine builders I have talked with use Amsoil MCV and have excellent results. No issues issues with the honing or cross hatching but nice burnished internal parts. I leave the dino fill in for 100-200 miles for the initial wear.
 
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