Clutch dragging on cold startup
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Stage III
Joined: Sep 2008
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Clutch dragging on cold startup
I have a 2004 Sportster with 7 k mi. on it. The other day when starting the bike cold while in gear I noticed the bike pulling a little. I put it in neutral and started it, but it did grind a little when I put it in gear. I'm thinking that this could be a simple adjustment, but the mechanic said it could be loose rivets in the clutch plate. Is "loose Rivet" a common problem... Especially on a newer bike with low miles? And can you tell without removing the clutch for inspection? I'm wondering whether or not this guy is just trying to drip into my pocket.
T
T
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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That has been common on all my bikes. My RK with high compression will wear out a starter when trying to start in gear.
Save the starter and shift to neutral...
ps. you will notice this more on cold starts due to the wet clutch and thicker viscousity.
Save the starter and shift to neutral...
ps. you will notice this more on cold starts due to the wet clutch and thicker viscousity.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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No I don't..I think it's normal.
You can adjust the cable for release point and the clutch itself for range of release but I don't know how you could fix this...
On our helicopter we use a block heater to warm up the oil prior to start up......
You can adjust the cable for release point and the clutch itself for range of release but I don't know how you could fix this...
On our helicopter we use a block heater to warm up the oil prior to start up......
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,881
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From: USA
First, before you do anything. Change your oil and adjust your clutch. Cold thick oil will cause clutch drag. Some guys change to a synthetic to reduce this a bit because the syn oils drag less. But my 05 sporty would drag in the Winter and that initial shift into first was always a grinder if I didn't allow the bike to warm up. I went to syn3 which was a bit better. But starting in neutral & allowing the bike to warm up (4-5 minutes) was always best.
If you are adventurous try Redline MT90 in the trans/clutch. It is a 75w90 gear oil with no moly and a thinner pour point than syn3 20w50.
BTW, I doubt there is anything wrong with your bike.
If you are adventurous try Redline MT90 in the trans/clutch. It is a 75w90 gear oil with no moly and a thinner pour point than syn3 20w50.
BTW, I doubt there is anything wrong with your bike.
Last edited by KBFXDLI; Sep 26, 2008 at 11:10 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,942
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From: guntersville, al
i run synthetic ATF in my primary. ATF is obviously formulated for wet clutch discs. adjusting the clutch generally won't change the spring tension holding the discs and plates in the basket. neutral is a good idea. i see many riders backing up their bikes holding the clutch in and getting resistance when they would find it easier if they went to neutral.
Ultimate HDF Member
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From: Wesley Chapel Fl.
Try synthetic oil.
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Stage III
Joined: Sep 2008
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Thanks
From what you all are telling me this is normal. I'm already running synthic oil so before I let this mechanic dip too far into my pocket... I'm just going to make sure the clutch is adjusted properly and see how that works out. Thank you all for your help.
T
T
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