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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:13 PM
  #31  
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I thank you all for the reply's and I learned allot more then I bargained for. As it turns out it was the battery was just a little under charged, I borrowed a 12v battery charger hooked it up let it sit for a few mins and started her right up and let her run for abtou 15min or so, then shut her off and went back to work. When I came out a few hours later she started right up and I have not had a problem since.

I do thank you for all the help though, and it is good to know that in a pinch I can start her from a cage if need be, but I will save that for a last ditch effort if needed.
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Beerninja
I thank you all for the reply's and I learned allot more then I bargained for. As it turns out it was the battery was just a little under charged, I borrowed a 12v battery charger hooked it up let it sit for a few mins and started her right up and let her run for abtou 15min or so, then shut her off and went back to work. When I came out a few hours later she started right up and I have not had a problem since.

I do thank you for all the help though, and it is good to know that in a pinch I can start her from a cage if need be, but I will save that for a last ditch effort if needed.
Good deal. You can easily check your bike's charging system by hooking up a volt meter to the battery terminals, starting your bike and taking note of the voltage readings. With the bike off, you should see around 12.5 volts. After you start the bike, the voltage should rise to around 13.5 or better. You should definately see an increase after starting it. If you don't, your charging system isn't operating correctly. Hope this helps.
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by soundman
There seems to be some confusion here on this subject.
The facts:
  • The only concern about jumping your bike with a cage is 'voltage'. Your bike has a 12 volt electrical system and so does your cage, so it's okay.
  • 'Modern charging systems' will supply between 13.6-14.6 volts to the electrical system when the engine is running. (provided the alternator is functioning correctly) This is true also on your bike.
  • If you put a volt meter across the battery terminals without the engine running, you will get approximately 12.5 volts (providing the battery is in good shape) Start the engine and the voltage rises to around 14 volts if the charging system is working.
  • CCA (cold cranking amps) is only a function of the load that the battery is capable of handling. Your truck requires more cranking amps then your bike does, hence the 800 cca vs. 200 cca.
  • The amperage present in a circuit is a result of the load placed on the circuit. I.E.- A motorcycle starter places a much smaller load on battery than a truck starter cranking over an 8 cyl.
    • In your house, a typical outlet is rated at 15 amps, a single 60 watt light bulb draws .5 amps - the lightbulb is not being hit with 15 amps even though the outlet is capable of producing 15 amps. That's because the load placed on the outlet dictates the amperage. Too much load with trip the breaker.
  • Just because a battery has 800 cca's, doesn't mean that jumping a bike with it is going to blow anything up with 800 amps. If so, then how do you explain the fuses in the system that range from 2-30 amps that don't blow in your truck?
  • Because cars and trucks have batteries with higher cca's, you can usually jumpstart your bike without having to start the car, however, if you start the car, it will not hurt the bike.
  • JUMPSTARTING A MOTORCYCLE WITH A RUNNING CAR IS OKAY TO DO!!!
Now put an amp meter or a VAT 40 on that car and see that the output of the alternator at idle with no load is greater than the maximum output of the charging system on the typical bike. Agreed, the output of the alternator is a product of load however, when all systems are off with the exception of ignition, the base output of the alternator is still excessive when compared to that which the bike would normally ever see. Jumping a bike with a car battery is no problem. Add an alternator that has a base output of 25 to 35 amps and this can be an issue which is why it is not recommended you start a bike with the car running.
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by soundman
You only assumed that starting the other vehicle would damage your bike, so you didn't prove the theory. Others on this thread have jumped their bikes with the car running and their batteries or their electrical system didn't explode. Seems that they already disproved your ideas concerning charging systems.
I even said that you can start the bike off a car battery without messing it up. What I did not say is it's not a good idea with the car running nor will I. I even said I've done it myself. Admittedly I do less and less in the anologue world and much more in code anymore...
...and yes, it's series circuit, I lost the word for a moment there.

Anyhow. So using your own example, you are telling me that it's impossible for the automobile to present more current to the bike then it's electrical system can handle? With everything in good working order in a perfect word I would agree. It's not theory, I HAVE blown up a battery jumping a 4cyl gas forklilf off of 3 battery 8 liter desiel stake truck. Yes, they are voltage regulated and yes, it should work on both ends, But you are definately pushing what the reguator(s) can handle at that point.

The ends of the jumper cables are the same point electrically, It is possible to damage both the battery and the voltage regulator on which ever vehicle has the more less "robust" potential. It may not be immidiate but it's not a good idea.



Oh, and no, I have no idea what the DC resistance overall of ANY major circuit system on either my bike or my car or truck. lol Nor am I about to sit there with the manuals and try to simplify it all down.
 

Last edited by Tripped1; Dec 17, 2008 at 10:08 PM.
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 09:51 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by soundman
Good deal. You can easily check your bike's charging system by hooking up a volt meter to the battery terminals, starting your bike and taking note of the voltage readings. With the bike off, you should see around 12.5 volts. After you start the bike, the voltage should rise to around 13.5 or better. You should definately see an increase after starting it. If you don't, your charging system isn't operating correctly. Hope this helps.
This is all true however, the voltage that is present is not an indicator of the charging systems ability to tolerate load. Rather, start the bike and watch the voltage go up. Now turn everything on that you can and be sure to hold the brake on. Check the voltage again and be sure it doesn't drop into discharge or below the static reading before the bike was started..
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 7/11 The Crapshooter
Now put an amp meter or a VAT 40 on that car and see that the output of the alternator at idle with no load is greater than the maximum output of the charging system on the typical bike. Agreed, the output of the alternator is a product of load however, when all systems are off with the exception of ignition, the base output of the alternator is still excessive when compared to that which the bike would normally ever see. Jumping a bike with a car battery is no problem. Add an alternator that has a base output of 25 to 35 amps and this can be an issue which is why it is not recommended you start a bike with the car running.
The output that you are refering to, are you talking voltage, or amperage? Have you actually done this test on both? If so, what where the results? I like actual values. Just saying...
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 7/11 The Crapshooter
This is all true however, the voltage that is present is not an indicator of the charging systems ability to tolerate load. Rather, start the bike and watch the voltage go up. Now turn everything on that you can and be sure to hold the brake on. Check the voltage again and be sure it doesn't drop into discharge or below the static reading before the bike was started..
Agreed. I forgot the part about taking a voltage reading under ful load. Standard paractise.
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 10:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 7/11 The Crapshooter
Now put an amp meter or a VAT 40 on that car and see that the output of the alternator at idle with no load is greater than the maximum output of the charging system on the typical bike. Agreed, the output of the alternator is a product of load however, when all systems are off with the exception of ignition, the base output of the alternator is still excessive when compared to that which the bike would normally ever see. Jumping a bike with a car battery is no problem. Add an alternator that has a base output of 25 to 35 amps and this can be an issue which is why it is not recommended you start a bike with the car running.

oops. I re-read your post and realized you were talking 'amps'.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 10:15 PM
  #39  
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uh oh, isn't that a serial posting 8)
 
Old Dec 17, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #40  
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Just go to wally world and get a 1.5 amp Schumacker battery maintainer for about $20.

Connect the pig tail to the battery and connect the charger to it. I will take a day or so for the light to go green. Just leave it connected until you go for a ride then hook it back up when you return. The maintainer will at least double the life of the battery used in this manner.

I collect bikes and cars. I have keep 12 batteries going. Two of the cycle batteries are almost 8 years old.
 



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