i got a 56 pan shovel with early 70s kick only tranny...cant seem to get the tranny out...all bolts are out but after taking off all the clutch plates i still cant get the thinig out its stuck by the inner primary tin...anyone...anyone?

 

you got the clutch plates off... what about the hub?

 

no...thats whats holding the traany from coming out...how do you get it out/off.

 

you need a clutch hub puller

https://www.phatperformanceparts.com...tCode=DS196061
https://www.phatperformanceparts.com...torysingle=YES
Clutch hubs can be "stuck" on there pretty good too. I actually broke 2 pullers trying to get a BDL clutch hub off once. It ultimately came off using a "Jims" puller with much "torque" and a couple of blows from a dead blow hammer...

 

i tried a steering wheel puller and bent the hell out of the hub backing plate..thats what ill call it anyway....barley moved it...do i need to just get a hub puller or is there something else?...is that backing plate one piece with the hub....have i destroyed it?...thanks

 

Not sure what you're calling the "backing plate". The puller works by pulling the 3 or 5 studs on the hub against the tranny main shaft. See the links above.

 

thanks...ill get one....i hope it works and i hope i didnt destroy the back of the hub with the puller i used..it had jaws and bent the palte on the back of the hub...thanks again, i really appreciate it.

 

the good news is that the hubs for the old 4 speeds are fairly cheap.

 

The hub is destroyed if you bent the back.

 

The 'hub' is the center piece, keyed to the tranny shaft.
The 'basket' is the large outer piece, that the primary chain goes 'round.
IF, you did indeed bend, warp, distort, or otherwise trash the hub using a gear puller, J&P, Dennis Jerk, V Twin, or look for an ol' greybeard indy in your area.
IF you are keeping this ride, buy a universal hub puller.(The second link in Blue's post) It works for MANY different apps on the old ones. Or, once again, look for an ol' greybeard indy, he MAY loan it to you.
Use your clutch stud nuts to hold the puller on the studs, BUT reverse them from 'normal', PRECAUTIONARY action.

Pull the hub nut first. It's LEFT handed threads. Use the impact to get it off, LEFT HANDED threads. I'm sure you have it out by now, but the push rod, too. Makes a H*LL of a mess if'n ya don't. Likewise, be a li'l careful 'round the tranny shaft threads. Once again, they are LEFT HANDED, and those dies are a tad difficult to come by, to chase the threads AFTER you booger 'em. Guy told me that once, uhh, maybe it was TWICE.

When you get the puller on there, and get a GOODLY amount of torque on the puller, take a large drift punch and a BIG AZZED hammer, reach in next to the puller, place the punch close to the tranny shaft, BUT on the hub, SMACK the chit outta it, once or twice. (The bigger the end of the punch, the LESS damage you can do to the hub. BUT if you do 'ding' it, just use a flat file to clean it up, IF it is useable) Reapply more torque on puller. (You should've noticed it was easier than before, meaning YOU GAINED!!!) IF the hub didn't come loose this trip, repeat.
OR do as I do, and use the lazy bastuds method, 1/2" drive Ingersoll-Rand impact and 3/4" deepwell impact socket on the puller. Hasn't been one that outsmarted the I-R yet.

Couple of recommendations concerning this area.
IF you have to replace the hub, get the 5 vs the 3 stud.

Replace the stock 'barrel roller' clutch bearings with the long roller bearings. Again, J&P, D.K. etc.

Also, I run "clutch tamers' in ALL my old iron. Goes a LONG azzt ways to eliminate that notorious Harley 'creep' with the clutch disengaged, and makes adjustment much easier, IMFUO. The long roller bearings help in this dept, also.

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