The only time I've trailered my Ultra was when it wouldn't start a few weeks ago, had to haul it to the dealership. Now we're planning on trailering part of the way to Sturgis this week (no slams please, we have our reasons). The straps that I bought have these open-ended S-rings on them, just common tie-downs. But trailering just the 20 miles to the dealer had me worried about hitting a bump, bottoming out the bike suspension, causing slack in the strap and having the S hook let loose at the mounting point. I cut the S hooks off today and replaced them with aluminum gated D-rings, like you'd use for repelling. I like that they have gates and CAN'T let go, but the aluminum part makes me wonder if they are strong enough. They are "rated" for 1800 pounds or something. Anyone ever use D-rings for strapping down a bike?

 

place the strap around the handle bar with a foot or so hanging from the end of the s hook. then take the other end of strap and wrap around bottom half of s hook 4 times. now the s hook is not even on the bike and the strap wont bugger up yer bars. that is what i do. then once it is strapped stand on bike and shake it like hell. no moving it.

 

I didn't strap to the bars last time, can't really with my trailer, the bike fairing is in the way. Which leads me to me my next question...

I used soft-ties around the forks right where they mount to the fender and was careful not to pull them too tight. Want to make sure I'm not spreading the forks apart. Is this OK?

 

I used to strap to the handle bars, but now strap to the down bars part of the frame. I wouldn't strap to the forks.

Can't help you with the Q about D-rings.

 

Hmmm, guess this isn't an answer to your question, but more of a suggestion for "next time". What I was shown, is that you can put a one loop granny not into the strap and then wrap the strap around what you want (handlebars, forks, etc.) and then you put the S hook into the granny not and tighten. In other words, the S hook is not attached to the terminal point but loops back to itself. It tightens down very hard and you don't have to worry about it "slipping out" if slack gets in the strap but can be removed easily enough by slipping the S hook out of the knot. Once the S hook is out of the knot, its easy to undo the knot when your done. I know this sounds sorta complicated, but its really very easy and very effective.

 

Anyone else have experience trailering an Ultra?

 

I use soft straps at the area where the frame and engine guard cross. Never had a problem with S hooks.

gary

 

Stro.. Being a broken down old guy I trailer my 07 POSE, now trike a lot. I also trailer our Deluxe and my SE Fatboy.

Never, never strap to the handlebars or you may bend the bars. Not good when you get to your destination and your right or left hand is a few inches lower than the other. They will bend. So will the engine guard so don't use your hwy pegs for a mounting point either.

Let me tell you what I use and maybe it will help.

I use 3" wide straps with cranks on the front and the same straps on the rear but with a slide and lock type chuck. Each strap has an S hook on either end. I use softies on all four mounting points on the bikes. Two in the front and two on the back.

I have an enclosed trailer but this will work on an open trailer as well if you have front wheel chocks and floor rings. (I am taking for granted that you do.)

Hook the rear up first. Try to use the passenger board mounts with the softies then hook the straps to the softies then the floor rings and tighten them. Use your foot for leverage, if you can, and continue pulling on the loose end. If an S hook gets close to your pipes then wrap it with a towel.

For the front I place the softies on the frame where the top of the engine guard mounts then put a piece of foam between the strap and the fender if the strap is too close when hooking to the floor ring. Any old pillow will do. Make sure the strap cranks are at the floor, not the bike.

Once the front strap is in place I crank the straps tight which pulls the forks down into my Condor wheel chocks. I do one side a little then the other. Do not bottom out the forks. Simply pull the forks down a few inches until you feel it is tight enough to ride then give it one more notch on the crank. If you hit a bump the forks can still move but the straps will stay tight.

Have been doing this for years with no issues, no scratches, no bent bars. Some guys like the kickstand down other like it up. I like it down for no other reason than my mental state.

If you have an enclosed trailer that is not very wide then stick some foam tape on the wall where your mirrors may hit. This way it won't scratch your chrome if the bike rocks. Mine don't but I like the protection there anyway.

 

Trailered 2 Ultra from Pa to Ge in March. Used two sets of soft straps on each side of the handlebars. Hust make sure you get them UNDER the cables. Why the two sets oon each side? Also used to S type rachet straps on each side down to two different eye bolts. Ya have a failure, you got a backup. Bikes rode perfect down and back. Used HF 59 dollar wheel chock.

 

Has anyone ever tried trailering their bikes the way the Condor demo shows? With the straps toward the center of the bike?