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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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Default wheel bearings

how do you know when your wheel bearings are going bad before they vibrate or fall out is there a sign besides noise or wobble or vibration?
 
Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Get a flashlight and look at your wheel bearings. The later model HD's (2000 and up) have sealed wheel bearings. If you see a lot of grease on the outer part of the bearing, then the seal has gone bad and the bearing needs replaced.
 
Old Apr 4, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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My only experience with a bad wheel bearing was that quite awhile before failure there was a definite vibration as the bike swept through turns...the steeper the lean the worse the vibration. My wife was complaining she could especially feel it vibrate through her passenger pegs. It was a sealed bearing, there was no indication of a grease leak through the seal, but finally the outer sealed bearing race cracked.

The best way to check is to take the wheel off, and stick your finger in the axle hole, and rotate the inner bearing bushing. It should feel quite smooth. I now make a habit of checking this item every time I change tires....most likely the shop isn't going to bother to check it.

A sealed bearing replacement doesn't cost that much, and any good wheel/axle shop can do it (has to be extracted then a new one pressed in....and believe me, it will be easier for them to get the old one out than if you wait until after the damn thing disintegrates).
 

Last edited by krusty1; Apr 5, 2010 at 06:55 AM.
Old Apr 4, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by krusty1
My only experience with a bad wheel bearing was that quite awhile before failure there was a definite vibration as the bike swept through turns...the steeper the lean the worse the vibration. My wife was complaining she could especially feel it vibrate through her passenger pegs. It was a sealed bearing, there was no indication of a grease leak through the seal, but finally the outer sealed bearing race cracked.

The best way to check is to take the wheel off, and stick your finger in the axle hole, and rotate the inner bearing bushing. It should feel quite smooth. I know make a habit of checking this item every time I change tires....most likely the shop isn't going to bother to check it.

A sealed bearing replacement doesn't cost that much, and any good wheel/axle shop can do it (has to be extracted then a new one pressed in....and believe me, it will be easier for them to get the old one out than if you wait until after the damn thing disintegrates).
Good points! I bought the wheel bearing extractor/installer from Georges Garage after my GF had her front wheel bearing go bad on her Dyna The shop charged her about $100 to replace both bearings. She didn't know she had bad bearings until we were riding together and I noticed her front wheel was not rolling true. I discussed this with the mechanic and he said you'll notice grease coming out of the seal before the bearing fails completely, but sometimes you they can fail before that occurs.

Anyway, I noticed grease coming out of my rear wheel bearings, picked up a couple of new bearings and replaced them both in a little over an hour. The tool has paid for itself, as I have helped friends save money when they have had bearing issues.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by krusty1

The best way to check is to take the wheel off, and stick your finger in the axle hole, and rotate the inner bearing bushing. It should feel quite smooth. I know make a habit of checking this item every time I change tires....most likely the shop isn't going to bother to check it.
The only caution I have on this advice is that even good sealed bearings may not move easily with the wheel off the bike. I learned this because the rear bearings on my 07 RK would not rotate at all with normal finger pressure. So of course I was concerned and took it to the HD mechanic who, being stronger than I, used some force with his thumb and was able to rotate both bearings with some effort. He asked if it was making noise; when I told him No, said it was fine and that a lot of the late model ones were coming through like this.

I ran it this way for a while and still wasn't satisfied, since I have never seen bearings that wouldn't rotate rather easily. So I bought the HD wheel bearing tools, pulled the bearings (which were not damaged in any way and rotated easily in my hand) and installed new ones. Guess what? The new ones were just as tight after installation. Apparently the inner spacer preloads the inner races outward. However, after the axle is properly torqued, the bearings turn easily, just like they're supposed to. I made up some spacers and torqued the axle in the wheel (off the bike) and proved that to myself.

I've never seen this sort of bearing behavior anywhere else, including the front wheel of the same bike, but I think it is designed this way.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:43 AM
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I have never seen a wheel bearing failure on any bike I ever had, but my rule of thumb is that when ever the front tire is changed (two rear tires) change the bearings, it is not like they cost a ton of money and a lot better than not changing them and finding out the hard way that you should of.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 03:57 AM
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My friend's heritage fronts went out on him this weekend. It wasn't too hard to tell they were going. +1 for the advice about them being easier to get out in tact than after they have gone south and come apart when you try to get them out.
 
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