Front brake pulse
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2010
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Front brake pulse
I have a 2006 road king custom that I just put new 9 spoke chrome wheels on. The only new parts were the wheels and chrome front spacers, everything else went back on as before. I now have a front brake pulse, it started as soon as I pulled away from the shop, (this was not done by a Harley dealer). Any suggestions? I don't think it's the rotors, I had no problems prior to the wheel installation. Air in the lines maybe? Let me know what you think.
Jim
Jim
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Joined: Oct 2007
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About the only thing it can be is the rotor(s). If it wasn't there before it sounds as if the mounting face of the new wheel was not machined properly (accurately) resulting in excessive runout.
The only way to know for sure is to mount a dial indicator to the rotor to measure the runout. It should not exceed +/- .007. Less is better. All machined parts have some runout sou you should try to mount the low spot on one surface to the high spot on the other surface to minimize the pulse. Time consuming.
Or you could buy some floating rotors.....
The only way to know for sure is to mount a dial indicator to the rotor to measure the runout. It should not exceed +/- .007. Less is better. All machined parts have some runout sou you should try to mount the low spot on one surface to the high spot on the other surface to minimize the pulse. Time consuming.
Or you could buy some floating rotors.....
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,968
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From: Lockport Township, IL
About the only thing it can be is the rotor(s). If it wasn't there before it sounds as if the mounting face of the new wheel was not machined properly (accurately) resulting in excessive runout.
The only way to know for sure is to mount a dial indicator to the rotor to measure the runout. It should not exceed +/- .007. Less is better. All machined parts have some runout sou you should try to mount the low spot on one surface to the high spot on the other surface to minimize the pulse. Time consuming.
Or you could buy some floating rotors.....
The only way to know for sure is to mount a dial indicator to the rotor to measure the runout. It should not exceed +/- .007. Less is better. All machined parts have some runout sou you should try to mount the low spot on one surface to the high spot on the other surface to minimize the pulse. Time consuming.
Or you could buy some floating rotors.....
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: 46th State, USA
While removing the front wheel and handling the brake rotors, it advisable to clean the rotors before re-installing. The oil and grease in some case on the hands get onto the rotors and can cause the brakes pad to slip in places. If they did not clean the rotors at the dealer, that could be the problem.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Lockport Township, IL
While removing the front wheel and handling the brake rotors, it advisable to clean the rotors before re-installing. The oil and grease in some case on the hands get onto the rotors and can cause the brakes pad to slip in places. If they did not clean the rotors at the dealer, that could be the problem.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Lockport Township, IL
If you do not have a dial indicator, there are other ways to check to see if the rotor is bent (warped). Raise the front wheel off the ground. Use a brick or anything heavy to hold some kind of indicator (pencil, screwdriver, almost anything) close (really close) to the rotor and slowly rotate the wheel watching for changes in the distance between the rotor and the indicator, If you see any obvious warpage - you will need to either replace or straighten the rotor. If you use the leather mallet method - keep in mind, small taps work best. Take your time. If you replace the rotor, I suggest using new hardware. You should not re-use the screws because the torq on them is so high that the bolts stretch and weaken. Replacement screws are not expensive and they come with locktite pre-applied.
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1st Gear
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OK, I can do that, I wasn't thinking the rotor could be warped because it wasn't when I took it to get the wheels on. On the bright side the new wheels, true duals, heavy breather and power commander are awesome.
Jim
Jim
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The only thing he left out that I would do is to remove the caliper prior to checking for runout. Find which side has the most runout, take the rotor off the wheel, rotate it 180* then bolt it back on and rechek.
I'd like to see a pic of your bike. What size front wheel did you go with? I too have a RK Custom, the best looking of all HD.....
I'd like to see a pic of your bike. What size front wheel did you go with? I too have a RK Custom, the best looking of all HD.....
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,968
Likes: 34
From: Lockport Township, IL
The only thing he left out that I would do is to remove the caliper prior to checking for runout. Find which side has the most runout, take the rotor off the wheel, rotate it 180* then bolt it back on and rechek.
I'd like to see a pic of your bike. What size front wheel did you go with? I too have a RK Custom, the best looking of all HD.....
I'd like to see a pic of your bike. What size front wheel did you go with? I too have a RK Custom, the best looking of all HD.....