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Another advantage to that set up is that some of the condensation will collect in the fitting. I did mine the same way except I have an 8-10" pipe before the valve. This makes more room for condensate to collect and also makes the valve easier to reach (it isn't under the tank anymore).
Another advantage to that set up is that some of the condensation will collect in the fitting. I did mine the same way except I have an 8-10" pipe before the valve. This makes more room for condensate to collect and also makes the valve easier to reach (it isn't under the tank anymore).
Another advantage to that set up is that some of the condensation will collect in the fitting. I did mine the same way except I have an 8-10" pipe before the valve. This makes more room for condensate to collect and also makes the valve easier to reach (it isn't under the tank anymore).
One very important facet of "bleeding" your air tank... the faster you let the air out... the more condensation that builds up in the tank. The rapid air flow cools the inside of the tank below the outside temperature and actually builds additional condensation inside the tank You now have to wait 'til the inside and outside of the tank are the same temperature and the extra condensation has time to dry or your just wasting time by draining the tank in the first place. I think it states on most tanks to bleed them slowly... now you know page 2.................
This is true. I had installed the same 1/4 turn valve on my 30 gallon compressor. I does work great but you should modulate how fast the tank bleeds down. If you let that valve wide open the air coming out cools so fast the valve will ice up until air flow ceases...even with pressure behind it. When I got my 60 gallon stationary compressor I left the original brass thumb screw drain valve in it. It is a high quality valve so I just coated the threads with anti seize compound. I only open the valve enough to let the water drain, when the water stops I give it a quick blast to clear the valve. I keep an old plastic butter tub with a shop rag in it under the drain valve to absorb the water/rust discharge.
OK, How are these? While I was getting these I decided to add a couple of another addition that may interest some. It is a 25ft recoiling hose reel. Before you ask if is from HF:, sale price is around $40.
Harbor Freight had ( don't know if they still do ) an automatic blow down kit for compressors for around $25 . I picked one up yrs ago , takes a bit to install but my compressor is hard mounted in an insulated shed beside my garage I flip a switch & don't see or hear it but for the monthly PM I give it .Works great , just heads up .
piasspj , nice addition on the hose reel never crossed my mind to do that with one I had laying around Kudo's man . I just hung it up by the garage door when I moved my noise maker out to a locked shed .
PS ; for every one invest in a LARGE stand alone in line filter with at least 10' of hose in between the compressor and it , a tip from a pro comp. mechanic .
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Oct 7, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Not to thread jack but any in here need air tools ? I have a number IR & Stanley impacts and air drills some new all others new internals just some ugly outside , cheap . PM if interested I'll give my ph# for a call . This is all legit no crap .
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