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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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Default Help!

I just need a little help.

I'm trying to sell a trunk for a friend but I'm having trouble finding out how much these things are new. The trunk came off a 2005 FLHT. All hardware/wiring is included and there isn't a single scratch on it.

How much do y'all think it is worth? Any links you can provide that shows how much the thing would be new would be very helpful....Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 04:00 PM
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I wish I could be of more assistance. One rule of thumb some regular riders try for is 50% of new cost, which is just about a grand including hardware. Don't turn down Five hundred!
But more so wish I had the cash at hand to pick that tourpak up from you or your friend. I'd give Four or Five large if it had the quick release hardware. Even though it would still need to be painted for my scoot.
 
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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You could trying searching the classifieds here or Ebay and get a ball park figure.
 
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Go to E bay, look them up, this will give you an idea what they go for and what models it will fit.
 
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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ebay or cl in your area search the
 
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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I agree ebay and see what bids they are getting not the buy it now price see what actually sells, i bet if u get 200 u should take it repainting is costly, unless you find the guy who has that color
 
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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First off... don't search for a "trunk". You won't find much info to help you. It's referred to as a tour pak (tourpak tour pack, etc). I can't tell for sure from the pics, but is it equipped with the quick-disconnect hardware? What year bike did this come off of?

This much is for certain... do NOT sell it for a mere $200. Hell, I'll give you $300 and turn around and do exactly what I'm about to tell you to do with it.

To give you some rough ideas, the spoiler retails for about $200, the back-rest goes for about $150, the tourpak looks to be a chopped pak, so that's about $700. If it has all the hardware, AND the quick disconnect kit, it would all retail for around $1100-$1200. Minus the Q-D kit and you're looking at about $900-$1000 retail. Keep in mind, these are estimates, because there's always dealers who sell for 20% off, and then some guys NEVER shop around and just pay full retail, etc.

Most people interested are probably going to want to paint it to match their bike, so that's a slight drawback.

Some guys think they should get as much as 80% of what they paid for something. Most of them never sell their stuff either. Some guys sell their stuff for 50% of value. That stuff doesn't sit around too long either.

To be realistic... somewhere about 60% is a good place to start. Someone might jump on it, and others may throw you some lower offers. I try to think like a buyer I'm trying to sell something I no longer want or need. After you've determined what the retail value is... ask yourself how much would YOU be willing to comfortably spend on the exact same item. And take all circumstances into consideration. (i.e - Will I have to paint it? Will I have to buy replacement parts/hardware to make it work properly? Will I need to repair it? Is it EXACTLY what I'm looking for? etc, etc, etc)

I can tell you that when I was looking for one, I would have considered spending about $600 for yours. I wan't particularly interested in the lighted spoiler, but oh well. Maybe I would have removed it and resold it to recoup some of the dough. Maybe I would have kept it... who knows.

Personally, if you want the most you can get for it and you're not in a big hurry, the best bet is going to be listing on e-bay.
Start the bidding at a buck, with no reserve and list the spelling/correct terminology suggestions I gave you earlier in this post. Be sure to list as much info as possible about it. Put several pics up on it, and maybe even a pic of it mounted on the bike and... WASH IT! Presentation is everything when it comes to a successful sale.

Hope this helps!
 

Last edited by Wanna Ride; Dec 26, 2010 at 09:54 PM.
Old Dec 27, 2010 | 07:04 AM
  #8  
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Start the bidding at a buck, with no reserve
Please explain the strategy.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 07:21 AM
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Look up (tour pac,tourpac,tourpack) just like I have it written out on e-bay (it will find all three variations). And on the left side check the "Completed listings" box. That will tell you what they actually sell for. It's a more accurate quote because it tells you what people really are willing to PAY for them as opposed to what some people THINK they're worth.
 
Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 1flhtk4me
Please explain the strategy.
Auctions that start at $1, or have "No Reserve" generate more interest. Fewer folks bid, or "watch" items that start at $100, $200, or $300 etc.

Similar to "live" auctions, the bait of a minimal opening bid, or lack of a reserve is what draws bidders in. Then once they take the bait, they now have a personal interest in the outcome. Hopefully, they let their emotions control their spending.

Not that I've ever done any official market research or studies. I'm basing this practice solely on my personal e-bay experiences. In just over ten years, I've sold approximately 1900 items on e-bay. I'm not a dealer, retailer or wholesaler. Just a private individual that sometimes "flips" items on e-bay that I may have acquired locally or bought in lots on the internet. I guess you might say one of my hobbies, is just buying and selling. I've bought quite a few items (500+) e-bay as well. Sometimes I buy things that I think I want, but later decide I don't. Having several different sorts of hobbies, and always wanting to finance the next project, e-bay is a relatively easy way to generate the funds for the next project. And sometimes I strictly buy things that I know I can make a few bucks on.

I learned a while back (15+ years ago), at local auctions, often an item that can't generate an opening bid of $75, will frequently sell for over $100, $150 if the auctioneer starts over at a dollar. NOW, he has the attention of several bidders. As bidding climbs, the bidders start getting determined they want to win that item.

All I do is apply the same theory to the virtual, online auctions. I've actually tested this too, because as demand/supply changes, so does buying/spending habits fluctuate and change. Sometimes, I'll just post an auction with a reasonable reserve (I always post my reserve in the description, so bidders don't have to guess) or I'll put the opening bid high enough to cover a reserve. Rarely does this listing do well, often the item doesn't even generate more than a handful of bids.

Now, post a similar item with no reserve and an opening bid of a buck... and watch the action. I'll see 10, 20 people "watching" the auction. And a large majority of the time, the item does very well.

That being said, I always make it a habit to post several, good pictures, in good light from different angles. I answer questions daily, and precisely. I go to great lengths to include any and all info regarding the item. if there's any flaws, be sure to post that info as well. I specifically list my rules, where I do and don't ship to, how and when I expect payment, and if I combine shipping amnd shipping by what means. These are all key to a succesful online auction.

But honestly, in recent years, it's getting harder and harder to sell on e-bay. The seller and paypal fees are ever increasing, the scammers are more and more commonplace. It's almost impossible to win a dispute against a buyer, even if he's as dishonest as a crooked lawyer.

Now, of course others may agree with me 100%, and some may not agree at all. I'm just drawing from my personal, firsthand experiences.

Just my humble two cents. Hope this helps!
 

Last edited by Wanna Ride; Dec 27, 2010 at 08:27 PM.
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