Gearing Down or Not?
I change down as the bike slows so that I'm in the right gear to pull away quickly should some sort of situation occur. I don't want to be hunting for the right gear to get out of the way - just gas 'n go!
As the speed is reduced to about 30mph, I'll usually just coast to a stop using the brakes while changing down through second into first as appropriate for my speed. I'll be in first from about 15mph to a stop. The reason I coast is that quite often by the time I've changed into 3rd and matched the engine/road speed for a smooth change into 2nd, it's already time for 1st. I want to be in 1st as I come to a stop. That way, if the traffic starts moving again before I've come to a complete stop I'm already ready to bring the revs up and move away again - I don't have to think about which gear I'm in - it's always the right one.
On my bike? I don't blip....
Nice comparison....800 pounds VS. 80,000 pounds
I change down as the bike slows so that I'm in the right gear to pull away quickly should some sort of situation occur. I don't want to be hunting for the right gear to get out of the way - just gas 'n go!
As the speed is reduced to about 30mph, I'll usually just coast to a stop using the brakes while changing down through second into first as appropriate for my speed. I'll be in first from about 15mph to a stop. The reason I coast is that quite often by the time I've changed into 3rd and matched the engine/road speed for a smooth change into 2nd, it's already time for 1st. I want to be in 1st as I come to a stop. That way, if the traffic starts moving again before I've come to a complete stop I'm already ready to bring the revs up and move away again - I don't have to think about which gear I'm in - it's always the right one.
I'm in the correct gear for the speed i'm at as I approach the stop. I'm not really using the gears at below 20 mph unless i've got alot of room to coast before I get to the stop.
At higher speeds I use engine braking more than I do at stops, but whatever I'm doing I'm in the right gear for the speed I'm doing.
From watching others come to a stop at intersections, some you can hear them kinda snap the motor to bring up the revs and use those revs to shift down...that requires a lotta pratice to master and I'm not sure of the outcome if you don't quite master it soon enough.
Others just quietly come to the intersections using mostly the brakes...I shift down as far as 3rd and then brake and wait to feel the bike begin to labour a bit then push in the clutch and brake to the stop and finish the last 2 gears after I've stopped.
I'm kinda torn of whether I'm wearing out the clutch and brakes sooner or doing more damage not quite timing those rev snaps properly and feeling the front end of the bike go down and hear her groan out those gears slowing down too hard.
Just pickin y'alls brain to find out how its suppose to be done....I wanna do what I can to keep her out of the shop as much as possible.
I think the biggest problem is confusing rev matching with blipping, rev matching is a controlled application of the throttle so the engine rpm is appropriate for the lower gear your going to select. this is good to do and was taught in my driving course I did 10 years ago (driving for 30 years but only 10 with a license) blipping is the quick snap of the throttle which is uncontrolled as to the upper rpm. blipping was common in old transmissions as I said before and some one else mentioned also. the non syncro tyranny's didn't shift nice unless the RPMs were very close to matched, so like was stated you put a bit of pressure on the shifter grab the clutch and blip the engine and it would fall into gear as the RPMs dropped to the right range with out grinding. I even used to have to do this on my 1964 ford 3 on the tree. Big rigs do this all the time as it used to be only 1st gear was syncro on those also.
blipping will still work but with the tyranny's syncros in every gear now it is a uncontrolled way or rev matching and generally done cuz it sounds cool.
proper rev matching where you bring your throttle up to 3K because you know when you down shift at this speed your bike would run at 3K. this gives you a smooth shift and is easier on the rest of your drive train.
Steve
From reading other threads and posts and I know that some of you been biking since you been in diapers and that means far more to me than having some stiffneck reading out of a book on how I should drive. Everytime I leave my driveway and go out into the asphalt jungle its a driving test,if I pass I make it home safely and if I fail..well just don't wanna do that.
I know that since I'm on a bike I have to drive for all the cars around me, constantly evaluating and re-evaluating situations, not drive in the center of the lane and list goes on and on and so far I've done pretty good but I don't know everything so I seek knowledge from a broad range of opnions and this forum does that for me.
At the end of the day, no matter what anybody says or does its my choice wether I use the opnions of this forum because they are only opnions, not written in stone and I value some of them.
All I can say is ride safe, have fun and keep the rubber side down.

The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
???????
has anyone who believes there are synchro's in trannies ever torn one down? .
My 1951 triump,and every bike I have worked on yet has a constant meshgear/dogshift tranny.
oops,I take that back,the sachs/engine ,and the "hodaka"had a Key drive shifter ,or a displaced "ball" shifter..
you guys on this forum have me worried, too many assumptions ,no facts ,or experiance,however continue to post what they "heard from somone somewhere"











