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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #21  
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Ace Hardware is where I got polished stainless allen head bolts to replace the stock ones.
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #22  
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The 2 best pieces of advice here: swap them out for allen bolts and only snug them up!
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #23  
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A heads up with chrome and alum. threads use a dab of teflon paste thread sealer as a lube if you do change out to chrome bolts . Had a lot of problems with the chrome chipping on the bolts and galling up in the base metal threads , the white teflon paste stops that .
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Kowan
Ace Hardware is where I got polished stainless allen head bolts to replace the stock ones.

Same here, 1/4-20 buttonheads. I used some SS lockwashers and some anti-seize as well, total cost was under $5. They had chrome hardware as well, but only had 5 of the 6 bolts I would have needed. The SS look fine to me.
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FUBAR55
Gotta disagree with the loc-tite on those. Torx heads strip too easy to lock em in.
I put anti- seize on them
Yep - steel screws into aluminum, with loc-tite? Seems like a bad idea to me. I'fve never put anything on them or had a leak.
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 02:40 PM
  #26  
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I replaced those bolts with SS ones from Menards,they also have Chrome bolts but i find that Harley's are cheaper !!
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Moothon
Harley uses Torx Plus size bolts that are just a hair bigger than Torx regular. The Torx Plus bits are more expensive as well. On ebay, they are always more expensive.
Have you tried a Torx Plus bit on any of your Torx bolts? I have never found one Torx Plus bolt on any Harley I've owned.
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #28  
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When I replace any bolts on my bike I go with standard black socket head cap screws that I can get from work. Have to watch for rust, but they come out when I want them to. +++3 or however many, those bolts have little if any pressure behind them and need little torque. Same as when you change oil on the cage, run it for a while and check the tightness and for leaks, not a big deal. Granted, they don't look as sharp, but do the job.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by brenn
Yep - steel screws into aluminum, with loc-tite? Seems like a bad idea to me. I'fve never put anything on them or had a leak.
Steel screws into aluminum with loc-tite won't hurt anything as long as it's used sparingly. The loc-tite does three things; lubricates, prevents galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals, and does the usual loc-tite thing.

Big thing here is that these derby cover screws aren't all that stressed, and a simple snug-down ought to do the job. But then I've run into some who have ham-hands and always seem to over-torque.
 
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #30  
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Yes I used a T-27. Always check. I follow the service manual to a T. If it specifies a torque range I always use the mid value. That has worked from me from the 60's on. I also log and take pictures as the bikes are under warranty yet. Don't want any argument as to the quality and completeness of the service. The Ultra will be out of warranty at the end of the month. The 25K will be what I call "good enough".

Went to the dealer. They have the full set only for the chain case at $59.95. I walked out. Will go to the hardware store next.
 



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