Harbor Freight lift table
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 6
From: Livingston, Texas
This is what I got. I paid good money for it. I like the heck out of it. And I got the trailer kit for it.
If I had it to do over again. I would still buy one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eu6JNccqRCs
If I had it to do over again. I would still buy one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eu6JNccqRCs
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Union, Oregon
Got one of the HF tables several yrs back -- not sure of the part #, but has the better wheel chock (locks the tire along the front and bottom edges), the drop-out panel for the rear wheel, and is air/hydraulic. I've had lots of different sizes of bikes on it, and never had a problem. Think I paid $350 or so.
Also have a couple of those roll-in front wheel chocks on my trailer, like DZLDR suggests. Could work pretty OK on a table, I think, but if you need to pull the front wheel, you're gonna have a fit. W/ the big chock, you can jack the forward part of the frame (keeping the bike stable w/ tie-downs) and pull the front wheel thru the front of the chock. Not so w/ the roll-in chock.
I can set the chock for the approximate size of the tire, ride the bike up into it, get off and let go, and the bike will only lean a little. After I get it all tied down I'll tighten up the chock.
And, yeah, after a while it'll leak down. But what hydraulic shop equip won't? I've got a 2-t end lift, several floor jacks, a couple of those saddle-type bike lifts, etc., and they all leak down if you don't lock 'em down w/ their own safety precautions -- locking bars, jack-stands, etc. That's what they're for!
Whatever you do, don't skimp. The only place bikes fall off lift tables and don't get hurt is on TV!!!
Mike
Also have a couple of those roll-in front wheel chocks on my trailer, like DZLDR suggests. Could work pretty OK on a table, I think, but if you need to pull the front wheel, you're gonna have a fit. W/ the big chock, you can jack the forward part of the frame (keeping the bike stable w/ tie-downs) and pull the front wheel thru the front of the chock. Not so w/ the roll-in chock.
I can set the chock for the approximate size of the tire, ride the bike up into it, get off and let go, and the bike will only lean a little. After I get it all tied down I'll tighten up the chock.
And, yeah, after a while it'll leak down. But what hydraulic shop equip won't? I've got a 2-t end lift, several floor jacks, a couple of those saddle-type bike lifts, etc., and they all leak down if you don't lock 'em down w/ their own safety precautions -- locking bars, jack-stands, etc. That's what they're for!
Whatever you do, don't skimp. The only place bikes fall off lift tables and don't get hurt is on TV!!!
Mike
Last edited by mongorider; Nov 30, 2011 at 10:30 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 231
Likes: 2
here is what I did to my Harbor freight table lift.
THROW that POS front wheel vise away! get you a wheel chock and bolt it to the table top, then you can ride your bike (or push it) up on the table, into the chock, then just step off with no worries of it tipping over! Plenty of clearance for bagger fenders as well.
note: tie down straps should be used whenever rear tire is removed
THROW that POS front wheel vise away! get you a wheel chock and bolt it to the table top, then you can ride your bike (or push it) up on the table, into the chock, then just step off with no worries of it tipping over! Plenty of clearance for bagger fenders as well.
note: tie down straps should be used whenever rear tire is removed
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,122
Likes: 51,431
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Got one of the HF tables several yrs back -- not sure of the part #, but has t
And, yeah, after a while it'll leak down. But what hydraulic shop equip won't? I've got a 2-t end lift, several floor jacks, a couple of those saddle-type bike lifts, etc., and they all leak down if you don't lock 'em down w/ their own safety precautions -- locking bars, jack-stands, etc. That's what they're for!
Whatever you do, don't skimp. The only place bikes fall off lift tables and don't get hurt is on TV!!!
Mike
And, yeah, after a while it'll leak down. But what hydraulic shop equip won't? I've got a 2-t end lift, several floor jacks, a couple of those saddle-type bike lifts, etc., and they all leak down if you don't lock 'em down w/ their own safety precautions -- locking bars, jack-stands, etc. That's what they're for!
Whatever you do, don't skimp. The only place bikes fall off lift tables and don't get hurt is on TV!!!
Mike
I just made up a couple sets of safety braces for the rear to match the heights I have the locking bar set at and welded a couple chunks of angle on the lower frame & under the table to act as pockets to hold them in place .
. I strongly suggest no one ever leave a bike up in the air on a lift without locks to take the pressure off the hyd. system , like you said it will leak down and the just having the one up front will allow the whole thing to torque & warp as it sag's on the rear . I'll tell that one from personal experience .
Before the flame fanboys get started about cheap import crap I have seen a bike on commercial Handy Lift just like the ones every dealer in the world use just fall over . No one around , no earthquake , nothing it just sagged a bit on one side and over it went , 3 of watched it and never found what failed to cause it . So always chock & lock the lift or lower it at night please how much it costs or who made it doesn't make a damn bit of difference .
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Union, Oregon
I'd been cyphering on putting some kind of locking bar (not unlike what's on the front) on the back legs, but this would be much easier.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,122
Likes: 51,431
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Really good idea, TwiZted. Not a bad idea to be labeling the 'tool' either -- helps to keep from accidentally snaggin' it for some other project!
I'd been cyphering on putting some kind of locking bar (not unlike what's on the front) on the back legs, but this would be much easier.
I'd been cyphering on putting some kind of locking bar (not unlike what's on the front) on the back legs, but this would be much easier.
Had this lift about 9 years now and it's been in use constantly , had some trouble with the jack unit once but found a guy dumping all his stock from a company closing and picked up 2 more for $25 ea. then repaired the old one . Mine was just crude workmanship cleaned things up found some better springs & check ***** , some thread sealer on things and it works fine actually better than when new . so keep that in mind if you start seeing oil under the jack .
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,589
Likes: 4,551
From: USA
I ordered a wheel chock from HB and it arrived today. If you look at the picture below you'll see that the chock appears to just be sitting on a driveway and isn't fastened or bolted down. But, when I read the assembly instructions they said it has to be bolted down to asphalt or a trailer bed.
My question: do any of you guys use this chock? If so, have any of you used it without bolting it down? I was hoping to just use it for oil changes and for winter storage to keep the bike upright to take up less space in the garage. Btw, I have a 2002 Fatboy. Don't mean to hijack the thread.......just thought this topic was similar. Thanks!
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...ock-97841.html
My question: do any of you guys use this chock? If so, have any of you used it without bolting it down? I was hoping to just use it for oil changes and for winter storage to keep the bike upright to take up less space in the garage. Btw, I have a 2002 Fatboy. Don't mean to hijack the thread.......just thought this topic was similar. Thanks!
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...ock-97841.html