Moving handlebars back....
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
Moving handlebars back....
First off, I did do a search under handlebar adjustment and did not get what I needed. Basic question is how do I move back my bars for my 05 FLSTCI? Do I just loosen all four (or just two) of the bolts? I think I only need to move/roll them back an inch or so, but want to experiment as I get more and more miles on the bike. Current position is not bad, but my arm length (32/33 for dress shirts) is not exceptionally long.
I have the HD tool kit, as well as a pretty decent collection of craftsman tools. Looks like it is a simple process, just dont want to start tinkering until I hear back on the proper way.
'Dawg
I have the HD tool kit, as well as a pretty decent collection of craftsman tools. Looks like it is a simple process, just dont want to start tinkering until I hear back on the proper way.
'Dawg
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 5
From: Currently the pig country of Arkansas
RE: Moving handlebars back....
SilverDawg,
I've got 1,500 miles on my 2005 FLSTCI and also had an issue with handlebar reach... Although I'm 6' 2" with long arms, the setup was just too far forward when I lay back and kick my feet up on the highway pegs for cruising.
The handle bar bolts take a 1/4" Allen wrench. I've got a set of Craftsman Torq sockets which have come in handy with my bike. If I pull the T-40 bit out of it's socket and then reinstall it backwards, the other end is a 1/4" Allen tip. This allowed me to get more twisties (1/2" drive ratchet vs short Allen wrench) to initially pop my bolts loose. I loosened all 4 bolts just to make sure I had the top plate aligned "straight on" as I tightened it back up. It took two separate adjustments before I got to the "resting the hands on the grips" reach I was looking for. Man was it worth it!!! Now I smoothly "press" the direction I want the bike to go instead of the jerky stretched out thing I had going before.
If you move your bars back very much you will want to rotate your grips so you can see/access your buttons. It takes a T-25 Torq bit. The whole thing took no more than 15-20 minutes.
Something to watch for is clearance... Turn your bars stop to stop and make sure they are not going to hit your tank. Also watch your brake line and clutch cable. You may have to tweak you brake line to insure clearance, however DON"T KINK IT!!!
Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.
Edmo
I've got 1,500 miles on my 2005 FLSTCI and also had an issue with handlebar reach... Although I'm 6' 2" with long arms, the setup was just too far forward when I lay back and kick my feet up on the highway pegs for cruising.
The handle bar bolts take a 1/4" Allen wrench. I've got a set of Craftsman Torq sockets which have come in handy with my bike. If I pull the T-40 bit out of it's socket and then reinstall it backwards, the other end is a 1/4" Allen tip. This allowed me to get more twisties (1/2" drive ratchet vs short Allen wrench) to initially pop my bolts loose. I loosened all 4 bolts just to make sure I had the top plate aligned "straight on" as I tightened it back up. It took two separate adjustments before I got to the "resting the hands on the grips" reach I was looking for. Man was it worth it!!! Now I smoothly "press" the direction I want the bike to go instead of the jerky stretched out thing I had going before.
If you move your bars back very much you will want to rotate your grips so you can see/access your buttons. It takes a T-25 Torq bit. The whole thing took no more than 15-20 minutes.
Something to watch for is clearance... Turn your bars stop to stop and make sure they are not going to hit your tank. Also watch your brake line and clutch cable. You may have to tweak you brake line to insure clearance, however DON"T KINK IT!!!
Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.
Edmo
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
RE: Moving handlebars back....
Edmo,
Thanks for the info. I wonder how they set them at the dealership. I know when they are shipped the handlebars are all the way down.
I'll check my box for the torx heads. Think I have what I need. Good info on the turn to turn so I dont hit the tank.
Pilot,
I'm away from home and i do not have access to my manual. I'll refer to that when I get home as well.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the info. I wonder how they set them at the dealership. I know when they are shipped the handlebars are all the way down.
I'll check my box for the torx heads. Think I have what I need. Good info on the turn to turn so I dont hit the tank.
Pilot,
I'm away from home and i do not have access to my manual. I'll refer to that when I get home as well.
Thanks again.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 345
Likes: 3
I know Im reviving a very old post here, but the search function did not return the information that I need (or at least the information that I expected). I have a 2010 FLHX and Im trying to adjust the handlebars back about an inch or two. I removed the ignition and fairing cap, but I could not get at the rear handlebar clamp bolts because they are too close to the inner fairing. I could wedge a hex wrench into the heads of the bolts, but the wrench would contact my painted inner fairing and I dont want to scratch it. Looks like Ill need to cut down a hex wrench to about 0.5 long on the short side so that I can get it in between the inner fairing and the bolt heads without scratching the inner fairing. The question that I have is do the bolt heads take a 6mm or 1/4 hex wrench? Ive read on this forum that it takes a 1/4 hex wrench, but I measured it as best I could and it looks like it may require a 6mm wrench. Im just trying to avoid having to make two tools.
Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 57
From: Rijssen, the Netherlands
I understand what you mean. I repositioned my handlebar of my Heritage Classic also in a 'lower' position to get a better riding position. Watch no to position it too low and avoid tank contact. I just changed my handlebar for a 'touring' type, the wide and lowered U-shaped Road King handlebar for I make very often long trips of 300 miles a day and frequently over 500 miles a day. Together with my high windscreen, highway steps and this 'Touring' handlebar the Heritage give me the best of both types: good stability on straight roads, flexibility in curved roads and mountain roads, comfort on long trips and the 'Spirit" of the Heritage Classic
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster CA... 40 min from L.A.
Just don't over tighten!... might strip a bolt on the handle bar clamp. Like I did.
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