I hope that entire engine rebuild was on the dealership, because the LAST thing I'd expect OR pay for is an entire rebuild at only 3500miles. That's just insane. Not to mention a faulty electronics or sensor is more likely to cause those symptoms than "bad valves" on a 20-freakin-12.

 

Well here's the video for what it's worth. Bike stalled out again two days ago but started right up again and seemed to run fine.
Next step is to call Headquarters again and log this problem in. Sucks. I bought a new bike so I wouldn't have to spend time with this stuff.

 

My wife's 2006 Sportster had similar intermittent issues from the day she bought it (06/06/06). Dealer had it several times and could find nothing wrong. Turned out that it was a defective Crank Position Sensor. It would only act up after the bike was warm. If I poured cool water on the sensor, it would run fine. I changed the sensor and it has run perfectly ever since.

Here is a write-up I did regarding her problems.

2006 Sportster 883L (carb)

The bike was purchased new in June 2006. From day 1, it had an intermittent problem. Occasionally, when it was ridden in warm weather and motor was warmed up, it would cough/fart thru the carb when trying to start up from a stop light. To keep the bike from dieing at lights, you had to keep twisting the throttle. Accelerating hard, there was a flat-spot where the bike would just limp along for quite a while before taking off.

We took the bike back to the dealer and he explained that HD sets these bikes far too lean in order to meet EPA standards. He rejetted the carb – replacing the low speed jet with a #48 jet. (Stock is a #42.) He did not drill out the plug for the mixture screw, so I know he did not adjust that.

The bike ran okay for a short time, but then the same intermittent issues started again. I installed the SE intake/breather in the spring of 2007. The bike ran fine all 2007, so I assumed installing the SE intake had solved the problem.

Fast forward to 2008, and the same intermittent cough/fart thru the carb starts again, and all the other symptoms. I took the carb apart and found no crud and no obvious problems. I put in a #45 low speed jet, drilled out the mixture plug, and set the mixture screw 2 ž turns out. This made no improvement and all the issues were still there.

I tore carb apart again. Replaced the needle and spring with the needle and spring from a Dynojet kit. (I did not drill out the hole in the slide.) I put the needle c-clip in the 4th slot from the top and put in 3 washers. I also replaced the breather washers that had come with the SE intake kit with a couple washers that were a little thinner. (The washers in the SE intake kit were slightly thicker than 1/8” - .137”. I replaced them with washers that were slightly thinner than 1/8”) I thought this would allow the carb to fit a little tighter in the gasket between carb and manifold, perhaps giving a better seal.

At the same time, I replaced the crank position sensor because I had heard of similar issues to mine being caused by a bad crank position sensor.

After all these changes, the bike appeared to be running absolutely flawlessly. Now the question was, did the mods to the carb solve the problem or was it a bad crank position sensor??? I ran the bike a few more days to make sure the intermittent problem is really gone. Then I put the original crank position sensor back in and ran it for a while. Sure enough, the intermittent problems returned when the bike was hot. I put the new sensor back in and it has run flawlessly ever since. Conclusion – Crank Position Sensor was the culprit!

 

I had a similar situation happen to my FLSTC. Turns out it was the vehicle speed sensor. No recorded error code, the bike would just quit running or not hold an idle. I would start it up and it would run fine for a while. Read the post below for more detail.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/trans...-symptoms.html

 

Lemon law does not apply to motorcycles in Florida...I believe there are a couple of other states also.

 

Sorry to hear about your issues...

I believe with your Diagnostics that you were trying to check, the "N" that followed the various "sections" (lacking a better word right now) means there are No error codes for that "section"

Can you tell if one of the cylinders isn't firing? I believe there is a setting (set by dealer) that will allow you to "shut down" the rear cylinder if you roll the throttle forward at an idle... Supposed to help prevent the rear cylinder overheat issues... Possible malfunction with this? Think it's a long shot, but thought I'd throw it out there for ya....

On a side note, I see that your gremling bell is hanging from your handle bar... Hopefully it was gifted to you, but it should also be hanging as low to the ground as possible (some also say to the rear as possible). This let the gremling fall to the ground and not back on to your bike. (again a long shot, but it sounds like you might be willing to try anything right now.)

Sorry I don't have anything more useful for ya and hope you can get if figured out sooner than later...

Good on ya

Junior

 

Watched the video again, and it looks like your RPM is displaying in the LCD screen and changing as you throttle it up...

I'd probably rule out anything to do with the sensors monitoring that... Unless it feels wrong. by that I mean: when it running this way, does the motor feel like it's running a 1000rpm but indicate 2000rpm?

 

If it were the crank position sensor screwing up I would think as soon as the ecm detected a bad reading it would shut off fuel pump as it is designed to do. It appears you can keep it running by giving it throttle (you are overriding IAC valve) (Idle air control) However if it were just the IAC valve as soon as you gave it a little throttle it should run OK and it's not. Since it was running OK just before video it's not like something mechanical broken. It's not showing a code as best as I saw you going thru them. Should be 4 including no tac.? Is it all stock or do you have any piggy pack fuel systems in line.

Do a WOW test and see what code it stored. Key off. Hold the mileage reset in. Key on and then release the button. All indicators should light (even ones not used on your bike) and needle should smoothly peg and return to zero. odometer display will read diag. Hit the reset button one time to see if you have any diag codes set. It will read P S SP T with the P flashing. P=ECM, S= TSM/TSSM (flasher/flasher and alarm) , SP=speedometer , T=tac (since mine has user mounted tac T looks like inverted mirror of F) With the P flashing you can hold the reset for 5 seconds and it will read out error codes for ECM or you can just hit and release it to page to next function and hold it 5 second to read errors. Easier done then said. If you have a factory tac should give you the read out codes for it If you have no alarm it give errors for TSM and if factory alarm it will be for TSSM.

Mine did exactly what yours is doing and I messed with it for a 3 weeks of and on. Just would not idle but in 10 stops it would want to die at 5 of them. I soon learned to just throttle idle it till after about 3 more tanks of ethanol gas it cured itself. The service station I had filled up at a few nights before my problem dug up his premium tank.

 

Bum fuel pump.

 

When my wife's crank position sensor was bad, there were no codes and fuel pump was NOT shut down.