electrical
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 36
From: Las Vegas
electrical
Was out for a ride last weekend. Stopped to re-adjust new windshield. Bike would not re-start. Battery did not have enough power. Called road side service..got jumped. Next day I bought new battery, fully charged. Compared old and new...new = 13.5 V. Old = 12.70. Bike started better with new. 
But, my questions was, what caused it. For awhile it seemed my old batter was losing power...enough power that the bike would barely start after leaving it for a week. (work is long these days). I did use a trickle charge but it never had to use it before unless temp got below 40. Has not done that yet.
Bought multimeter. Checked amp draw with bike off. Got 157 then after electronic speedometer/tach (70900171
Spun Aluminum, MPH/km/h) re-set, draw was 70. I thought that was too much so I pulled one fuse at a time and when I pulled the fuel pump fuse the mA dropped by nearly 40 across the board! So I ended up taking out the electronic speedometer/tach, I put in an older electronic speed/analog tach (70900001A) and the draw was 70 when re-set and down to near 30 after.
SO...was it the speed/tack? Could it be something else?
I have to wait till the weekend to take the bike out for a ride to see if batter will charge.
Oh, I checked all the "codes" buy using speedometer and using the Pro Super Tuner and NO codes showed up.
But, my questions was, what caused it. For awhile it seemed my old batter was losing power...enough power that the bike would barely start after leaving it for a week. (work is long these days). I did use a trickle charge but it never had to use it before unless temp got below 40. Has not done that yet.
Bought multimeter. Checked amp draw with bike off. Got 157 then after electronic speedometer/tach (70900171
Spun Aluminum, MPH/km/h) re-set, draw was 70. I thought that was too much so I pulled one fuse at a time and when I pulled the fuel pump fuse the mA dropped by nearly 40 across the board! So I ended up taking out the electronic speedometer/tach, I put in an older electronic speed/analog tach (70900001A) and the draw was 70 when re-set and down to near 30 after.
SO...was it the speed/tack? Could it be something else?
I have to wait till the weekend to take the bike out for a ride to see if batter will charge.
Oh, I checked all the "codes" buy using speedometer and using the Pro Super Tuner and NO codes showed up.
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What Year and Model is this? How many miles on it? Carb / EFI?
When you say it didn't start do you mean it did, or didn't roll over? Rolled over but wouldn't fire? Sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't?
Was current draw for the speedo assembly 157 milli-amps? I don't see where either assembly would be a heavy draw. You'll have 32 amps or more coming from the bike's recharging system, when working correctly.
Odds are your battery was getting old and either it wasn't turning it over, or the draw from the starter lowered the voltage to the ignition module so much, it wasn't sparking.
This could be due to your charging circuit having issues. Stator starting to go bad, voltage regulator acting up, bad contacts in connections.
The issue could simply be bad connections, often it occurs at the actual battery terminals. If bad you may not get the correct charging either, from the bike or the trickle charger.
Put the battery on a load test if you haven't already. It would be good to know for sure if it's bad.
Swapping out of variable speedo's etc. could effect this matter if one was shorting out the electrical system. Typically these items have very minimal draw compared to lights. People will upgrade their lighting and never think about the heavier loads they may be adding to their charging system.
Was current draw for the speedo assembly 157 milli-amps? I don't see where either assembly would be a heavy draw. You'll have 32 amps or more coming from the bike's recharging system, when working correctly.
Odds are your battery was getting old and either it wasn't turning it over, or the draw from the starter lowered the voltage to the ignition module so much, it wasn't sparking.
This could be due to your charging circuit having issues. Stator starting to go bad, voltage regulator acting up, bad contacts in connections.
The issue could simply be bad connections, often it occurs at the actual battery terminals. If bad you may not get the correct charging either, from the bike or the trickle charger.
Put the battery on a load test if you haven't already. It would be good to know for sure if it's bad.
Swapping out of variable speedo's etc. could effect this matter if one was shorting out the electrical system. Typically these items have very minimal draw compared to lights. People will upgrade their lighting and never think about the heavier loads they may be adding to their charging system.
Last edited by JohnnyC; Dec 6, 2012 at 05:12 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 851
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
Sounds like you have a current draw, somewhere. I had a similar situation where I had ignition switch wiring terminals loosen up just enough to "touch" each other and draw a current, thus, draining my battery. Also, check any grounds for good contact.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Las Vegas
Going to take the used batter for a load test this weekend...somewhere.
I remeasured tonight. With old speedo/tack, .067 connect amps. --after a minute draw showed .002 amps.
Hooked up newer speedo/tack. .156 hook up amps, settling to .070 amps ( and when I pull the Fuel Pump fuse it went down to .070 amps at beginning - this is the elecronic speedo getting info from ECM, then settled to .005 amps.
I remeasured tonight. With old speedo/tack, .067 connect amps. --after a minute draw showed .002 amps.
Hooked up newer speedo/tack. .156 hook up amps, settling to .070 amps ( and when I pull the Fuel Pump fuse it went down to .070 amps at beginning - this is the elecronic speedo getting info from ECM, then settled to .005 amps.
Last edited by paud; Dec 6, 2012 at 10:29 PM.
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Even in the heat out there. 2yrs is not normal life for a HD battery..
most go 4-5 yrs easy and some say 6-7 yrs.
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most go 4-5 yrs easy and some say 6-7 yrs.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 36
From: Las Vegas
I guess I need to find what the Harley stats are in regards to static draw from the battery when the bike is not running. I need to find it for the two electronic speedometers I have.
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