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Getting the air/fuel mixture correct across the entire RPM range is critical to having a great running bike. Any tuner worth his salt will give you run out sheets that will document what your bike started with and what it ended with. It should show horsepower, torque, and the air fuel mix across the entire rpm range. Sometimes all you get is the HP/TQ without the air fuel.
Getting the air/fuel mixture correct across the entire RPM range is critical to having a great running bike. Any tuner worth his salt will give you run out sheets that will document what your bike started with and what it ended with. It should show horsepower, torque, and the air fuel mix across the entire rpm range. Sometimes all you get is the HP/TQ without the air fuel.
Well I didn't get the before / after specs. But I don't think it was a reflection on the technicians "salt". Just more of a time / labor issue.
Well I didn't get the before / after specs. But I don't think it was a reflection on the technicians "salt". Just more of a time / labor issue.
You should have at the very least got a after. It takes less than a minute for them to print it out so there is not much of a time/labor issue. Without it, how do you know what you have, if they even did it, or if it was done well? This is a new one on me. I've never heard of getting a dyno without getting the print out. I've had 3 at 2 different dealers and I didn't even ask. They just gave me the results. My niece does them at the dealer she works for and they give them to. It's pretty hard to tune one without knowing what you are starting with. Particularly if it's EFI. They almost have to do a before, and the after is a given and like I said, it isn't much to print out the results. You simply pick the run, and hit the print button and wait for the paper to come out of the printer. It's just a line graph or 2 and both can be on the same piece paper.
Uh, ya - Sorry. I did get the "after" specs. Didn't get a run on the dyno with OE config ( before specs ).
Well you should be good then because you know what you have now and the after is the one that is important to you. All the before tells you is how bad it was to begin with.
Not trying to hijack this thread, but does anyone have thoughts on Skip's Cycles in Winchester Va.? I have read a lot of good stuff about them and they seem to have a good reputation.
Shakey
I've had my RK dyno-tuned there on two occasions. They do a good job.
How much a difference would two HD dealers be at dyno tuning in your opinion? Are there some questions I can ask the local dealer to see what kind of job he will do?
Quality of the tune is very much dependent upon the skill of the person doing the tuning, and the time they invest in the job.
Some questions to ask:
How do they sample the AFR? If they don't sample it at all, or if you have true duals and they only sample from one pipe, go elsewhere.
What correction factor do they use? If the answer is anything other than "SAE," go elsewhere.
Just what it sounds like… it's a correction that is applied to the readings. It removes a lot of the variables that can be manipulated to make the tune appear to be producing more power than it really is. Whenever you hear dyno numbers that seem too good to be true for the hardware installed, check the print-out of the dyno run. Almost invariably, it will be STD (versus the industry-standard SAE), which results in numbers approximately 14% higher. SAE "corrects" the results to their equivalent at 77F, 0% RH, and a barometric pressure of 29.234 in-Hg (99 KPa), thus allowing you to compare before/after dyno results… even if they are on a different day or different dynomometer. STD results can't be compared to anything.
Also, rwhp and rwtq should always intersect at 5250RPM. If they don't, either the operator has purposely manipulated the program display, or their dyno is in need of calibration.
Last edited by Mr. Lucky; Jul 12, 2013 at 10:43 PM.
Reason: Had the RH # wrong
I'm wanting a dyno tune. The only option near me is my local dealer (small town). I asked my local indy his opinion and he says take it a different dealer that is 3 hours away as they do a better job. He hates the local dealer for obvious reasons such as competitions etc. How much a difference would two HD dealers be at dyno tuning in your opinion? Are there some questions I can ask the local dealer to see what kind of job he will do? I'm trying to avoid driving 3 hours one way to get it done and hope it's right because if it isn't, I'm not likely going back any time soon.
If you give us an idea where in Ontario you are, someone may be able to recommend a good tuner for you.
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