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When you did the clutch adjustment inside the primary,did you slacken the cable first? The cable adjustment is done after adjusting the clutch. Sounds like you peformed a clutch adjustment with tension on the cable. But hard to say without it infornt of me.
When you did the clutch adjustment inside the primary,did you slacken the cable first? The cable adjustment is done after adjusting the clutch. Sounds like you peformed a clutch adjustment with tension on the cable. But hard to say without it infornt of me.
Yes. I did slacken the cable first. But I wasn't running the set screw in until seated then backing off 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I was loosening the set screw until it felt completely free to my hands. Then, as soon as I felt it move the clutch (tension) I backed out 1/2 turn. I was actually something like a 1/4" away from the seat. Once I figured that out I ran it all the way in, backed it out 1/2 turn, etc.
By that time I had cracked in to the transmission side cover and put a new cable in.
That's where I stopped and got flamed here.
I'm cooling now and waiting for time to focus on the step by step.
Just for clarification...
It was strictly due to ignorance about the clutch adjustment in the primary that led me to thinking I had stretched the cable. That's the only reason I ever got in to the transmission.
Most likely, just like ranchodeluxe said, I was fixing something that didn't need to be fixed.
Now I'm in a pickle.
When I first adjusted the set screw it backed out a very long way before it felt free to tighten back up (like 1/4" +). If I turn until what I feel as resistance, back it out a 1/2 turn, tighten locknut, button up and adjust cable to 1/16 - 1/8, I am now stuck in neutral. I can put it in any gear. But the bike still rolls free like neutral. What gives?
. :/
This part of your statement is what concerns me. You should of never had to back of the adjuster on the clutch basket this far.
How are you making out? Have you had a chance to look at it yet?
I messed around with the throw out rod this morning. All of the rollers are in the throw out bearing and the oil slinger isn't bent or messed up. The rod has a flat side, which tells me it only goes in one way. But, I haven't had time to read on it. I gently spun it while gently pushing to try and locate the flat side that it must fit in. But I didn't have much time. So I'm still in the same place. :/
I have the MSC all this weekend. I won't be back on it till next week. That sucks.
So I moved the snap ring in the trans cover to the correct position and everything went back together quickly. The snap ring is offset from the ball and ramp. That is why the manual says (yes, perfectly clear) "note position of snap ring tabs". If the tabs are in the wrong spot they press on the oil slinger and push out on the clutch and leaves you in neutral with the cable also locked down.
This didn't solve my problem though. I adjusted the clutch by the book a number of times. At 1/2 turn out, you can barely pull the lever. That is with the cable adjuster loosened all the way. At 3/4 turn out, it's still very tight. At 1 full turn out it pulls nice and looks like it is moving the clutch much more than the other two settings. But, once I adjust the lever to 1/16 to 1/8, it's so tight you can barely pull it.
Also, no matter where I was adjusted, I will not go in to gear while running. It will go in gear and not roll when not running.
It's looking like a damn trip to the stealer...
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The bottom end of your clutch cable (the cam that turns) has jumped from one detente to the other.
It's happened to me and others.
The shop manual I have instructs you to check this when adjusting the clutch.
The problem is, aftermarket pipes are often in the way.
The fix isn't that hard and a good time to put on longer cables if you need them.
Break into the clutch cable housing.
Using professional grade snap ring pliers (the snap ring is a royal bitch), remove the snap ring.
Move the ***** (bearings) and cable cam over to the original detente it should be riding in.
Hold it in your hand and you can verify you get full movement of the cable.
Replace it and the snap ring.
Button everything back together.
The fix is a freebie and if it isn't that, button it all back together and take to the dealer anyway.
I understand what you are talking about here. But there is only one detent for the bottom ramp mechanism to fit in. At least that is the case on mine. There is no other detent in the cover as shown in the book either.
There is a detent in the trans behind the door (that would mean pulling out the transmission.
Is that the detent you are thinking of?
Just a suggestion... When you drop your bike off at the dealer, go into the shop and watch them adjust your clutch... You will be amazed how mush you can pick up from just watching someone do it.
I used to screw around with the pushrod adjustment on my shovel constantly until someone showed me how to do it...
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