Frame Paint
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 10
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From: Bend, OR
Frame Paint
Has anyone rattle-canned the bad spots on a frame?
I'm redoing the 79 Shovel. About all that's left is the engine and tranny (and the oil bad, thanks to a stripped nut - picking up a nut buster tomorrow).
The mods I'm doing call for a total rewire. The old harness wasn't stock (no connectors) and looked pretty bad in some places but the oil bag has to be removed to route the new stuff.
I've got a lot of bad spots on the frame under the seat and tank as well as on the vertical pieces that go up to the top of the shocks. I figure with all the wiring pulled out it's an ideal time to sand those to bare metal and get some new paint on them.
The HD shop says the color is Vivid Black, but couldn't help me much more than that. They said they could sell me some for $80 a quart, and then I'd need an applicator and an activator - a little overkill for what I'm going for.
I'm thinking sand/brush it down to metal, prime, paint everything I can get at and follow it up with clear.
Just not sure what kind of paint and what color (flat, satin, gloss).
Anyone done this before?
Thanks in advance!
Drifter
PS pulling the rest of the parts and sandblasting and repainting the frame isn't an option due to a lack of some tools, recent surgery, and funds!
:hmmm:
I'm redoing the 79 Shovel. About all that's left is the engine and tranny (and the oil bad, thanks to a stripped nut - picking up a nut buster tomorrow).
The mods I'm doing call for a total rewire. The old harness wasn't stock (no connectors) and looked pretty bad in some places but the oil bag has to be removed to route the new stuff.
I've got a lot of bad spots on the frame under the seat and tank as well as on the vertical pieces that go up to the top of the shocks. I figure with all the wiring pulled out it's an ideal time to sand those to bare metal and get some new paint on them.
The HD shop says the color is Vivid Black, but couldn't help me much more than that. They said they could sell me some for $80 a quart, and then I'd need an applicator and an activator - a little overkill for what I'm going for.
I'm thinking sand/brush it down to metal, prime, paint everything I can get at and follow it up with clear.
Just not sure what kind of paint and what color (flat, satin, gloss).
Anyone done this before?
Thanks in advance!
Drifter
PS pulling the rest of the parts and sandblasting and repainting the frame isn't an option due to a lack of some tools, recent surgery, and funds!
:hmmm:
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
I've not used a rattle can on a frame, but have brush painted a few. It might be an idea to use a rust treatment if you have bare metal or rust. With your bike stripped as far as you currently have it you could tidy up the paintwork and repaint everything in sight! My preference would be a brush and a modern self-smoothing paint. An auto parts store might have suitable products. On a 30+ years old bike I doubt if colour-matching black is going to be very important!
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Bend, OR
Yea, I can go either way.
I like the idea of brushing it on - it's easier to control and all the masking isn't necessary.
I just haven't found anyone around here that knows diddly about paint.
Self smoothing - is that a term they should know? I think I"m going to do the rest of my paint searches over the phone.
In a city of 100k going to all the hardware and tool shops, would you believe only about 3 people had any idea what a nut splitter was? Surprisingly, one had it! While the girl looked it up on the Internet (to make sure I wasn't BSing her) I checked the tool display and found it.
The challenges sometimes!
Drifter
I like the idea of brushing it on - it's easier to control and all the masking isn't necessary.
I just haven't found anyone around here that knows diddly about paint.
Self smoothing - is that a term they should know? I think I"m going to do the rest of my paint searches over the phone.
In a city of 100k going to all the hardware and tool shops, would you believe only about 3 people had any idea what a nut splitter was? Surprisingly, one had it! While the girl looked it up on the Internet (to make sure I wasn't BSing her) I checked the tool display and found it.
The challenges sometimes!
Drifter
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Drifter, the old pre powder coat day frames had a baked enamel finish tough enough to hold up against a lacquer reducer. In those days the vehicle or reducer was petroleum based. It is difficult at best to get a paint that will hold up to the original product. I have for small applications purchased and used nail polish to fix small bad spots on older stuff. If the spot is too big I would respray with automotive grade enamel with the enamel hardener and gloss modifier. You need the hardener to hold up to spilled gasoline and salt spray. If you insist on a rattle can, I would suggest looking for an epoxy paint or visit my local automotive supply house that sells paint and purchas an automotive paint and an airbrush. I have never seen but heard some stores can mix and fill spray cans so may be worth asking.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,320
Likes: 56,879
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Pre...ating_p_8.html
This is excellent stuff and works well. NOTE Exposure to areas by sunlight should be "top coated"
This is excellent stuff and works well. NOTE Exposure to areas by sunlight should be "top coated"
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
I'm not sure if 'self smoothing' is an industry term! Here in the UK we have a brand 'Hammerite' who make hammer finish and smooth paints which they claim will smooth out brush marks as they dry. They are very durable and able to provide the sort of protection that Scrmnvtwins mentions. It's worth browsing around a big auto parts store to see if they have something similar.
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