SOS Skip
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SOS Skip
OK, I've been working on this problem for a while. The battery is good. The regulator looks OK, but remember I'm a rookie. I didn't had a test light to do the bleed test, the ground test showed both positive and negative results. I tested it 6 times; I think I was doing something wrong. The milliamp drain tested better the stats. Current out was within range. I added longer leads to the battery cables so I could pull the positive side of the battery to see if the engine died and it did. Could you tell me the best test proceedger to go through for the regulator? Then next step is to open the engine and test the alternator and I hope you know a few tricks to test it without taking the engine apart.
If anybody else wants to add anything, please do.
Cliff
If anybody else wants to add anything, please do.
Cliff
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: SOS Skip
Time to refresh the ol' gray matter here on this end. Bike is a alternator equipped Sporty, IIRC. Was blowing a fuse when trying to start. Again, IIRC, that was a bad starter relay. That is fixed now, right? So it starts, runs, and doesn't blow the fuse.
What's going on now with the bike? Is this a Sporty with the alternator behind the clutch? Were you checking the alternator stator windings for a ground?
Questions and no answers; not exactly what you were wanting to read, huh?
What's going on now with the bike? Is this a Sporty with the alternator behind the clutch? Were you checking the alternator stator windings for a ground?
Questions and no answers; not exactly what you were wanting to read, huh?
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2004
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RE: SOS Skip
Charge battery first, then check battery voltage with an ohm meter. Measure voltage. Crank the bike and test voltage again. It should be around 13 to 14volts. If it reads the same not running as it does running you know the alternator isnt putting out. If it puts out voltage, then you know the battery is prob bad.
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RE: SOS Skip
Yes, this is the bike that was blowing fuses, it was the starter relay and it's fixed and will start every time if there is enough juice in the battery. The alternator is behind the clutch and I haven't tested is for ground because I'd have to take the left side of the engine apart and was hoping someone here would have a easier way to test it.
Better to be on the same page then to throw out a wild quess.
The battery was at 12.9 volts. After I did the test will the extended battery leads, the voltage was 12.1, bike started, switched to high beams, voltage dropped to 12 and didn't come back up.
Side note, I've got the Sportster handbook off eBay and I'm top bid on a 101 H-D project with Sporter manual, so hopefully I'll learn something from those 2 books. 1st one should get here sometime next week.
Better to be on the same page then to throw out a wild quess.
The battery was at 12.9 volts. After I did the test will the extended battery leads, the voltage was 12.1, bike started, switched to high beams, voltage dropped to 12 and didn't come back up.
Side note, I've got the Sportster handbook off eBay and I'm top bid on a 101 H-D project with Sporter manual, so hopefully I'll learn something from those 2 books. 1st one should get here sometime next week.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: SOS Skip
I've never worked on an alternator Sporty. Have heard that some of 'em with the alternator behind the clutch have had more than their share of problems.
You shouldn't have to pull the primary, clutch, etc. apart to check the stator for a ground. There are output leads coming out from inside the bowels and going somewhere. Without a diagram I can't tell you where to find a place to disconnect them and take the readings. It'd also be the place to measure the unregulated alternator output. I'd bet the manual you have coming will have a description of the tests and procedures.
Something to remember: Even with a good regulator, the voltage measured at the battery will change somewhat with engine speed.
Wish I could be more help, but since no one has donated any manuals to me lately...
You shouldn't have to pull the primary, clutch, etc. apart to check the stator for a ground. There are output leads coming out from inside the bowels and going somewhere. Without a diagram I can't tell you where to find a place to disconnect them and take the readings. It'd also be the place to measure the unregulated alternator output. I'd bet the manual you have coming will have a description of the tests and procedures.
Something to remember: Even with a good regulator, the voltage measured at the battery will change somewhat with engine speed.
Wish I could be more help, but since no one has donated any manuals to me lately...
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