No Start after Flywheel-Crank Install
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: CA
No Start after Flywheel-Crank Install
Hi HDForums, I need your expert help.
I just installed a welded flywheel and got everything buttoned up. The bike will not start up. The oil pump and cam plate was replaced as part of the flywheel replacment.
Cylinder and piston were good. I see cross section lines in cylinders.
Bike is 2010 FLTRX Road Glide EFI FM 107" kit.
Bike was running fine until crank run-out was 0.036". I got a new balance/trued/welded crank from Revolution Performance.
What happens:
1. Bike is in neutral and I turn on ignition
2. I hear the ACR and fuel pump prime working
3. Press Start - and it cranks
4. I hear it trying to start and at least 1 small ignition.
5. I smell fuel
6. Bike will not start
Below is a video. Any help is appreciated.
I just installed a welded flywheel and got everything buttoned up. The bike will not start up. The oil pump and cam plate was replaced as part of the flywheel replacment.
Cylinder and piston were good. I see cross section lines in cylinders.
Bike is 2010 FLTRX Road Glide EFI FM 107" kit.
Bike was running fine until crank run-out was 0.036". I got a new balance/trued/welded crank from Revolution Performance.
What happens:
1. Bike is in neutral and I turn on ignition
2. I hear the ACR and fuel pump prime working
3. Press Start - and it cranks
4. I hear it trying to start and at least 1 small ignition.
5. I smell fuel
6. Bike will not start
Below is a video. Any help is appreciated.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: CA
Update on what I have tried:
1. Changed spark plug - no go.
2. disconnected CrankCase Position sensor to see if problem the was the same. It was not. Once I unplugged the crankcase sensor, I did not detect 1 combustion.
3. I checked for codes with Power Vision, there was none.
Things I am considering:
Redoing push adjustable pushrod.
1. Changed spark plug - no go.
2. disconnected CrankCase Position sensor to see if problem the was the same. It was not. Once I unplugged the crankcase sensor, I did not detect 1 combustion.
3. I checked for codes with Power Vision, there was none.
Things I am considering:
Redoing push adjustable pushrod.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1,006
there are two things you need and that is a set of noids to check injection pulse and inline spark tester to see if plugs are firing. if you have that see if the fuel is actually flowing and spark is where it needs to be. next make sure cps is good, tps is good and no vac leaks. p/r can be checked via compression or leak down tester. it is timed correctly in the gear case?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,071
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 338
Likes: 82
From: England
Some quick things to check.
Make sure you have the connectors for the front and rear fuel injectors the correct way around. The wire colours can appear pretty similar on casual observation.
Front : yellow/green and white/yellow
Rear : yellow/green and green/grey
As it's newly built do a compression check to see if the figures are in the ball park.
Check for spark if you haven't already. Plugs must be in the head and use one of your old plugs on the plug lead. If plug leads were removed from coil then make sure leads are the correct way around for front and rear cylinders.
Good luck.
Make sure you have the connectors for the front and rear fuel injectors the correct way around. The wire colours can appear pretty similar on casual observation.
Front : yellow/green and white/yellow
Rear : yellow/green and green/grey
As it's newly built do a compression check to see if the figures are in the ball park.
Check for spark if you haven't already. Plugs must be in the head and use one of your old plugs on the plug lead. If plug leads were removed from coil then make sure leads are the correct way around for front and rear cylinders.
Good luck.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,922
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: CA
Update:
Bike is back up and running. Thank you all for the tips.
Cause:
After checking that there is a spark, besides the obvious combustion you hear in the video, I started towards what I was considering, checking the push rods and going to the cam chest.
The cam chest area were good. All dots were aligned where they were supposed to be.
During the disassembly of push rods, I noticed that the rear intake push rod was not freely spinning like the rear exhaust push rod. I had the rear piston in top dead center compression with a straw. The intake push rod was extremely tight.
I then re-did everything with the straw trick for TDC, and buttoned it up again. The bike fired right up, and ran real strong.
Today, I took the bike from San Diego to LA and back, and it ran strong and had no problems.
Taking time for the push rod adjustment was the key. I do remember being tired when I had initially put back the push rod and not using the straw trick.
A night of rest and going back to basics helped
Bike is back up and running. Thank you all for the tips.
Cause:
After checking that there is a spark, besides the obvious combustion you hear in the video, I started towards what I was considering, checking the push rods and going to the cam chest.
The cam chest area were good. All dots were aligned where they were supposed to be.
During the disassembly of push rods, I noticed that the rear intake push rod was not freely spinning like the rear exhaust push rod. I had the rear piston in top dead center compression with a straw. The intake push rod was extremely tight.
I then re-did everything with the straw trick for TDC, and buttoned it up again. The bike fired right up, and ran real strong.
Today, I took the bike from San Diego to LA and back, and it ran strong and had no problems.
Taking time for the push rod adjustment was the key. I do remember being tired when I had initially put back the push rod and not using the straw trick.
A night of rest and going back to basics helped
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,922
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
Update:
Bike is back up and running. Thank you all for the tips.
Cause:
After checking that there is a spark, besides the obvious combustion you hear in the video, I started towards what I was considering, checking the push rods and going to the cam chest.
The cam chest area were good. All dots were aligned where they were supposed to be.
During the disassembly of push rods, I noticed that the rear intake push rod was not freely spinning like the rear exhaust push rod. I had the rear piston in top dead center compression with a straw. The intake push rod was extremely tight.
I then re-did everything with the straw trick for TDC, and buttoned it up again. The bike fired right up, and ran real strong.
Today, I took the bike from San Diego to LA and back, and it ran strong and had no problems.
Taking time for the push rod adjustment was the key. I do remember being tired when I had initially put back the push rod and not using the straw trick.
A night of rest and going back to basics helped
Bike is back up and running. Thank you all for the tips.
Cause:
After checking that there is a spark, besides the obvious combustion you hear in the video, I started towards what I was considering, checking the push rods and going to the cam chest.
The cam chest area were good. All dots were aligned where they were supposed to be.
During the disassembly of push rods, I noticed that the rear intake push rod was not freely spinning like the rear exhaust push rod. I had the rear piston in top dead center compression with a straw. The intake push rod was extremely tight.
I then re-did everything with the straw trick for TDC, and buttoned it up again. The bike fired right up, and ran real strong.
Today, I took the bike from San Diego to LA and back, and it ran strong and had no problems.
Taking time for the push rod adjustment was the key. I do remember being tired when I had initially put back the push rod and not using the straw trick.
A night of rest and going back to basics helped
Putting the crank/cam in the wrong position cannot make the pushrod too tight.. You got it too tight to start..
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