Push rod adjustment
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From: Washington
Push rod adjustment
A lady friend of mine needs a lifter block gasket replaced. 2000 heratige soft tail, She thinks there is a large cam installed not sure of the brand of push rods are. If there is no part # on them. What’s the best way for getting the right adjustment. I understand there is a thread per inch ratio. Do you think that would be a safe way to go. Trying to get it done today. Thanks for the advice. Hydraulic lifter she thinks, Did not want to pull apart til got adjustment ideas.
Last edited by Rickity; Jan 28, 2018 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Addition
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Joined: Aug 2008
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well without knowing what she has, it would be futile to say.
are the straight up hydraulic
are the using the limited lifter travel spacer
are the straight up solid lifter.
the only way to tell for sure is to look, the limited travel you could see how far it will collapse but you must be sure you bled the lifter totally down or remove the retainer and shake out the parts.
as a side note, the spacer will change how a hydraulic cam will work as they have diff profiles from a solid cam.
i run the spacer since i crank the rpms up to 7.5k so i do not need a collapsed lifter. the hd units are 6.8k and pushing it. i also do not need pump up. at cold start, no worries about bled down.
you must put the rod to be adjusted up on the top of the cam and give time for spring pressure to squeeze all of the oil out. then you set it on base and take all the slack out, i use 3 to 3.5 flats (rivera rods 40tpi or .025 per turn) out just enough movement to quite the valve train. once all are done it might take 5 miles of riding for the lifters to quite down and they do make noise. the book gives a better way to set both in/ex at the same time so i suggest you do it that way till you get the feel of it.
straight up hydraulic set on base and lifter pumped up, crank down to give around .010 clearance between plunger top and retainer (preload) to prevent the plunger from knocking out the retainer.
are the straight up hydraulic
are the using the limited lifter travel spacer
are the straight up solid lifter.
the only way to tell for sure is to look, the limited travel you could see how far it will collapse but you must be sure you bled the lifter totally down or remove the retainer and shake out the parts.
as a side note, the spacer will change how a hydraulic cam will work as they have diff profiles from a solid cam.
i run the spacer since i crank the rpms up to 7.5k so i do not need a collapsed lifter. the hd units are 6.8k and pushing it. i also do not need pump up. at cold start, no worries about bled down.
you must put the rod to be adjusted up on the top of the cam and give time for spring pressure to squeeze all of the oil out. then you set it on base and take all the slack out, i use 3 to 3.5 flats (rivera rods 40tpi or .025 per turn) out just enough movement to quite the valve train. once all are done it might take 5 miles of riding for the lifters to quite down and they do make noise. the book gives a better way to set both in/ex at the same time so i suggest you do it that way till you get the feel of it.
straight up hydraulic set on base and lifter pumped up, crank down to give around .010 clearance between plunger top and retainer (preload) to prevent the plunger from knocking out the retainer.
Last edited by bustert; Jan 28, 2018 at 08:09 PM.
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