Octane recommendation
Yes, the top of the guide needs to be cut for stem seals. And if you are running a non stock cam with high lift you should check for clearance between the top of the stem seal and the spring retainer because the seal takes up some of the free space.
Paul
Yes, the top of the guide needs to be cut for stem seals. And if you are running a non stock cam with high lift you should check for clearance between the top of the stem seal and the spring retainer because the seal takes up some of the free space.
Paul
Indeed, it'd be wonderful if I could just scrape some carbon (it's jetted too rich), lap the valves, and put her back together. It's really hard to tell from the other stuff I've gone over, as the guy who built I seems to have known what he was doing, but (for instance) used parts from various bikes when he didn't have what was necessary on the bench. One of the rocker shafts is from a '66 Shovel and the other three are from a later model (with the larger thread plugs). I don't think the cam is non-standard, but can't ask the builder (who was a good friend of my neighbor) because he just died of cancer two months ago. So, I may do a compression and leak-down test before I remove the heads to see how the valves are sealing--and will have my fingers crossed that the cylinders aren't glassy. Here's a couple of photos of my A-Series when I was assembling it--though the focal length is wrong to see the crosshatching (and that isn't the head gasket I ended up using).
Okay, thanks for the tips on the guides. I will carry them next door to my machinist (who makes most of my Creative Spridgets parts) and have him groove the guides, in the event I need to replace them. He also did the machining for my front brake setup and enjoys the break from his aerospace/national labs work to do my hot rod stuff.
Can't wait to fire this old girl up and head for the volcanoes!








