Is the bike built up? High compression?

 

Probably bad cables, LI puts out more voltage.. 13.3 compared to 12.7. That extra 0.6 volts can really help.

 

They’re very sensitive to charge rate, charge state and ambient temperature. I’ve put one in a cafe racer I built out of an old Suzuki because of the small form factor, wanted to hide the battery. I used a shindengen series type reg/rec that puts out exactly 14.2 V at any engine speed. In cold weather you should turn on the headlight a bit to warm up the battery before you turn the engine over. Regarding the charge state if you let the standing charge state drop too low they cannot be brought back to life…they’re nice, light and powerful just make sure your bike’s charging system is dialed in

 

I just recently bought bike pretty much rebuilding it lol compression Is 160 front 158# rear i was incrwdibly suprised to see and pretty happy lol k have since replaced cables starte and solonoid for various reasons starts perfectly now I've also replaced ign with dyntek ds6 with dual fire coil and rebuilt the 2005 cv carb it came with lol next I get to figure out my shifting problems I suspect were created. By unqualified person installing g forward controls I've fixed every issue ice found so far all were created by previous owners handi work including having to repair/rewire main harness he fried upside im learning my 94 early fxrs really well lol

 

Sorry early 84 fxrs mistype lll

 

My 107 --> 117 Stage III build compression check is 230 psi and 130 psi with compression release engaged. These are with 11:1 compression ratio target pistons.

My lithium battery rolls it over well. Then again, I paid the big money for USA-assembled battery, only because the softtail battery is small BCI Group 20L with the same size engine on the tour models, but they have a large 30L battery.

 

sweet ill get there or die trying lol 0

 

I've got an Antigravity ATX-30 880 cca in my '14 FLHTK. It will be 3 yrs old in September. You don't have to change the regulator, contrary to what somebody else said. If you use a tender, make sure it's for lithium batteries. My bike is stock 10.5:1 compression. The engine spends over much quicker and starts faster than it did with an agm battery. I've started it in temps in the 30's with no problem.

 

My battery does have been well documented on here.

- My first ever bike, a ‘15 48, the stock battery was dying after 1/2 riding seasons.
- On my ‘16 Slim, the stock battery lasted 4 years before stranding me at a gas station. Replaced with a Deca.
- On my current bike (‘21 48) the stock battery died and left me stranded at a gas station after 2 full riding seasons. I replaced it with an OEM battery that lasted me 2 full riding seasons before leaving me stranded at - you guessed it - at a gas station. I replaced it with an Yuasa GYZ16HL at the beginning of this riding season. Pretty much instant startup with the increased CCA on that thing. Time will tell how long it lasts.

 

Touring bikes they put bigger batteries and higher amp charging systems, so the batteries last longer?? My atvs, snowmobiles, sxss, lawn mowers, all do better than 2 years.