I have a 2011 FLHX Street Glide and have been having charging issues. I will list what I have done and if it checks out ok.
1. Battery, OK installed new one just in case
2. Battery charging at 14.14v steady on increasing RPM. Ok
3. Stator continuity Ok
4. Stator Voltage about 35v Ok
5. Stator Ohms test Ok
6. Regulator, seems to be reading "0" on the negative diode board side on both tests
7. Regulator, reads Ok on the positive diode side on both tests with a reading of about 400
My question is will my battery still charge if my regulator appears to be faulty on the negative diode side. Everything else seems to check out ok. If I run on the Hwy to work and back about 35k I have no problems but if I run it to work in the city route which is 10k it dies after a couple of days. Not that I'm complaining, highway time before and after work is great.
Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

 

What is the battery voltage at idle?

I assume #5 is resistance to ground is infinite.

 

Basically, Harley's don't charge at idle or under 1000 RPM.
So, your city stop and go riding isn't charging the battery enough to keep it charged for a few days of not riding.
That's what tenders are for.

 

Test voltage says to perform at 2000 rpm. However, even my old 04 will put out 13.5 at idle. That's enough to charge.

What is your idle voltage?

Disconnect your negative and with everything off, hook your AMP meter in line with it. You will see a surge as the alarm sets and instruments set but it should probably drop under 100milamps. What do you see?

Never did your regulator test. If it's under 15v and around 14.3 or so at 2k, I'm happy.

Think the issue is probably the 10k trips That's only little over 6 miles. Not a lot of charging time.

 

Maybe the old ones don't. Later ones have 3 phase alternators. My 07 has a voltmeter and running at idle, it does not drop below 14 volts..

 

who says hd will not charge at idle, yes they do but if the load exceeds the output, the battery makes up the short fall. i assume the battery will pass two back to back load tests, the first is to remove any surface charge and the second to see if it will pass. batteries can pass a voltage test and still lack capacity.
on a pmg, it is a fixed resistance and so as voltage rises so does the amperage. every time a pole passes through a magnetic field it will generate current and if you have 12 poles, it will add all together. if you increase rpm, the poles react and generate more current. that said, if the load is greater, there is a short fall.
so there is truth in not enough ride time.
if you replace, mr. max is right one, go 3ph. what is nice about 3ph is you can lose a leg and still have charge current, just reduced by approx 1/3. BTW: a tell is if you have flickering in the lights as the lost leg will cause increased ac ripple.

 

City stop and go riding not charging the battery enough, well maybe if the bike wasn`t made in the last 50 years or so.

My `89 Softail charges fine at idle...as does my 2019 FLHT and my 2022 FLHTCTGU.

 

Need to remember that standing voltage of a battery at 100% charge is 12.8 vdc so even if your 32 amp charging system is only putting out 13.5vdc@1000rpm it's still charging..
And yes 3 phase had a higher output at idle than the older single phase alternators..
Typically my Evo 32 amp systems will provide 13.9vdc@idle and my 38 amp 3 phase will provide 14.1vdc@idle..