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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I have the PC IIIwhich I have dialed in pretty good,MPG 41-44,good throttle response,decent power. I've read so much about theTMAXthat I'm wondering if I can do better,anybody thats switched I like to hear your comments. Thanks
I have it, changed from a PC III that I couldn't get tuned quite right on the dyno. I like the tmax, wouldn't go back. But if it's working fine now, then why go through the expense and all the trouble? I wouldn't unless maybe you plan on changing things in the future. The only reason I changed is because I couldn't get the PC dialed in quite right despite all the dyno runs.
I have the PC IIIwhich I have dialed in pretty good,MPG 41-44,good throttle response,decent power. I've read so much about theTMAXthat I'm wondering if I can do better,anybody thats switched I like to hear your comments. Thanks
I'm considering the 26H cams (chain drive) and haven't bitten yet because I haven't found a PCIII map with my configuration (mufflers, etc.) and don't want the added expense of a dyno tune. Besides, there are no tuners in this area. What bothers me is that TQ is not improved over stock on your bike, although HP is up about 10 from where I am now. TQ on my bike, based on a dyno tune on another bike using the same map and identical hardware, is 87--and TQ is what I'm interested in, not HP. If there is no increase in TQ, I'm not going the cam route, at least not that one.
A service writer at the local HD shop has a Dyna that has dynoed at 104 TQ and low-90's for HP, but he has 2-into-1's which will out-perform my slip-ons. I like those numbers, and if I could approach 100 TQ and mid-80's for HP I'd be happy.
I am going to T Max because I can't get my sert dialed in. I would probably not bother if the bike is running good. As good as the feedback has been on this product you never can be sure whenever you make a chnage.
I am going to T Max because I can't get my sert dialed in. I would probably not bother if the bike is running good. As good as the feedback has been on this product you never can be sure whenever you make a chnage.
Do you really think the problem is w/ the SERT? Maybe it's the configuration? I'd start by eliminating the True Duals. Larger displacement engines typically perform well w/ 2 into 1 applications. My experience (and I've seen HUNDREDS of dyno runs) is that the V&H Propipe is a good 2 into 1 system.
Regarding the True Duals....here's a simple test. Put your m/c on the dyno and get it warmed up. Be sure that warm-up enrichment is at zero before all runs. Have a piece of 2 x 4 board on hand.
1. Do a 100% (WOT) run on your m/c.
2. Don't make any changes and do another 100% (WOT) run with the 2x4 covering half of the right-side pipe.
3. Plot both torque and hp curves on the same screen.
I'll bet the 2nd dyno run, (board over exhaust), produces more HP and Torque. The Rinehardts are notoriously poor at allowing air out of the cylinder. By covering the exhaust, air in the cylinder is better organized and can flow out faster. It's not about the size of the hole! It's how efficiently it gets used.
I am going to T Max because I can't get my sert dialed in. I would probably not bother if the bike is running good. As good as the feedback has been on this product you never can be sure whenever you make a chnage.
Chris,
I would not replace your True Duals. In October I built a 2007 110" SE Ultra. Stock heads ported and flowed, JE 10.5:1 pistons, Mackie 598 cams, and T Max w/Auto Tune. The guy had SE A/C and True Duals tuned with a SERT to start with.
He was advised by friends to replace the duals with a 2 into 1 and we did some dyno runs with the duals and then swapped out for V&H 2 into 1 (blue proof) and made some more dyno runs. I thought we would see more but I was surprised; 2 HP & 2 lbs tq difference was all we got. I always run 2 into 1s on my bikes and they are IMO the best performance but based on that SE 110" I would say you won't gain much for the cost.
You just saved me alot of money. I have been trying to decide on True Duals versus a good 2 into 1. The diffeence in cost is at least half the price as I already have rush slip ons I could use.
Just curious, is there any difference between True Duals and the 2 into 1 when it comes to reducing the engine heat under my *****....[:@] ?
Go the tmax, pm me if I can help....over 200 sold, and not one returned because customer was displeased (did have one returned cause it was bad out of the box).
You just saved me alot of money. I have been trying to decide on True Duals versus a good 2 into 1. The diffeence in cost is at least half the price as I already have rush slip ons I could use.
Just curious, is there any difference between True Duals and the 2 into 1 when it comes to reducing the engine heat under my *****....[:@] ?
I think eliminating the cross over pipe is what reduces the heat so the duals and the 2 into 1 should be about the same.
A lot of my clients like the duals on baggers because there's a pipe under each bag. I run 2 into 1 on my baggers because I prefer the sound and I think they are a better system.
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