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Fuel injection issue

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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 01:54 PM
  #11  
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From: Honah Lee
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Originally Posted by StillOkie
RIPSAW, I get nothing from fuel pump. When I turn key, there is not a sound. Yes, bars are internally wired, but have been for over 3 years with no issues. Thanks
Make sure you have voltage at the fuel pump relay. If so replace or switch the relay if you have two with same number. If that does not get pump, jump pump at tank top and make sure it's not just the pump.

Do you have spark now when it cranks?
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 2, 2018 at 02:00 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 02:59 PM
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Thanks RIPSAW. I was going to test relay this evening. As far as having spark, I need to check that again. I'll also perform a jump if there is a voltage or relay issue.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by StillOkie
Thanks RIPSAW. I was going to test relay this evening. As far as having spark, I need to check that again. I'll also perform a jump if there is a voltage or relay issue.
Need voltage to relay and that timer to work first. Some how and it excapes me right now, as soon as the 3 second timer turns off, that relay is also decommissioned by ECM cutting out fuel pump ground until it picks up that 10-20 count on the CPS crank position sensor which it does in less than a turn of the crank, I think, but of course when running, pump runs all the time regulated only by the relief valve in the tank maintaining 63lb pressure all the time. (That is why you can hear fuel on a low tank level sloshing in the tank. Also, why the bike can idle or go high speed. Also why usually, if the filter is clogged which is rare, the first thang on an FI is usually, you loose idle or it dies easily when stopping. On a carb bike filter only affects top end at first.

Most engines have that timer system even in cars. However, on my 4x4 Toyota, it does not. And you can tell since it always cranks a second longer than most to fire. It also has two relays in the fuel pump system. The second in line controls the cutoff if the engine happens to die.

You got to understand system since it can trick you into buying parts unnecessarily.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 2, 2018 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 06:44 PM
  #14  
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Man, I appreciate all the help. I’ll keep this pretty short. First of all, I’m used to having a shop, lift, and all my tools. I’m working out of a tiny shed after moving recently. Anyway, got home and checked battery, fuel pump relay, and a few other things. Scoot’s FI came right on, and fired right up. Idled well for the 15 minutes I left it on. Waited a couple minutes, FI engaged again, but was a rough start. Idled fine after ignition. I could checked front spark, my neighbor wasn’t home. No rsp was gone from ECM diagnostic. I was pumped. Checked codes, that p1352 high/short to front cylinder popped up again. Then two new ones b1151 and b1152 for R and L signals. Is there a reset mode, or maybe a ground issue? Probably answering my own question, but is it HD shop time? If you have any other thoughts I’d truly appreciate it, thanks!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 08:01 PM
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Not sure what your outside temperature is but your Harley is air-cooled and the blowing air from driving is the fan. Don't idle a Harley except to get the idle RPM down to 1100 or so and drive. (couple minutes for me) If it is really cold, I do not drive it fast for a mile or so if I was going on the interstate.
Not sure why you have B1151 and 1152. Do you have a security TSSM or just signal lights TSM. Something is screwy with your box. And if that box is messed up, the fuel pump will not work. It is looking for a sidecar. Do you have 12.6 volts on the battery?
If you get B1151 and B1152 on a Softail, the solution in the book is TSM/TSSM not properly configured.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 09:14 PM
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I don’t have a tach, but pretty much know by speed/gear. Rode a bit, slow like you were saying. Signal codes stayed clear, but coil code didn’t. Another interesting problem I haven’t had in a year occurred. Left turn signals did the ‘Ol start up normal, then fast blinking. Bulbs are new. Ran pretty well, idle a bit rough, but never cut out. It’s unseasonably cold here, in the 30’s. No problems with FI, but I think I have a spark issue again. Both batteries solid, but when hot, they act almost dead. I interchanged them. My meter needs a battery to check front plug wire. Being close to tax time, I don’t wanna waste money at shop. On a side note, two years ago I gently played it over in a knee deep field after stepping in a tractor rut. Crank or tilt sensor, maybe loose ground? Thanks a million.
 
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