ecm question
#1
ecm question
is there a upgraded version of the stock ecm. can a stock ecm go bad..im still trouble shooting a problem and im trying to eleminate a possible bad ecm..for those that have been reading the "map sensor" thread i started, i have changed the IAC and that didnt help anything.. i had the fuel presure checked and its ok. now im back to wondering if a got a bad ecm..it had a 1550 stage 1 download but i had it reflashed back to a stock ecm. that was done at the advice from jamie at fuelmoto...
#2
#5
not sure how to Duplicate the thread but i can kinda start over..bike starts when cold but if i shut the bike off while cold it will not start back up unless i open the throttle all the way.. if i start it up and let it run awhile then it will start right up every time.it also is getting very bad mpg.. i do notice that i am getting black smoke from the pipes when i have to open the throttle all the way to get it started. it used to pop on decel even with a map from jamie but now it dont pop on decel at all whether i use the powercommander or unhook the powercommander.. it will flood every time if i start it while cold and shut it back off then start it again. i dont get any trouble codes and the check engine light dont come on . right now i got the powercommander off the bike and pluged the ecm back in and before it would pop on decel like crazy but not now and with shortshots and se breather ,you would think it would be very lean but it dont seem to act like a lean running bike..it seems rich. it just dont have the pep it used to have and i cant figure what wronge with it..the dealer tells me they have never seen a bike do this and im not wanting to pay them by the hour to just stand over the bike and say "hell i dont know"..lol..i can do that here for free..
Last edited by hddave2; 08-15-2008 at 05:04 PM.
#6
Sorry I haven't the time right now to postulate further with you. I will. What I'd meant was, you had started a thread and were getting "help" there. Now you have more information which really belongs as part of that old thread so that it can continue. Cut and paste your first post in this thread to a post at the tail of the old one. Let it continue. Somebody may come along later with the same problem, excitedly read through that thread, and figure you must've died and/or transfigured to the next lifeform in line for us before you found an answer to your and their problem. How will they know to look in a new thread for the continuation?
I want to try to help you get to the bottom of this, but I'd rather do it in the original thread.
I want to try to help you get to the bottom of this, but I'd rather do it in the original thread.
#7
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#9
Sorry I haven't the time right now to postulate further with you. I will. What I'd meant was, you had started a thread and were getting "help" there. Now you have more information which really belongs as part of that old thread so that it can continue. Cut and paste your first post in this thread to a post at the tail of the old one. Let it continue. Somebody may come along later with the same problem, excitedly read through that thread, and figure you must've died and/or transfigured to the next lifeform in line for us before you found an answer to your and their problem. How will they know to look in a new thread for the continuation?
I want to try to help you get to the bottom of this, but I'd rather do it in the original thread.
I want to try to help you get to the bottom of this, but I'd rather do it in the original thread.
#10
It certainly seems rich. If you've been driving it then it would seem you ought to be seeing some brown, glassy deposits on the spark plugs. It rather begs the question of how you're not getting DTC's. If you're running so rich as to lose power then it seems the ecm ought to say something is wrong. If you're actually burning the fuel then the O2 sensors should tell the ecm something is wrong.
Replacing the ecm seems a bit expensive when a reasonable assumption is that it is working. Computers tend to be all or nothing. It does a self-check at powerup, it has all the conditions it checks during operation that would set DTC codes and the general tendancy of cpu's to work correctly or not at all. I would suggest before you do that to get the electronic diagnosis manual. Someone said it has procedures for checking all of the sensors. The manual would be a lot cheaper than replacing stuff to see what happens.
Replacing the ecm seems a bit expensive when a reasonable assumption is that it is working. Computers tend to be all or nothing. It does a self-check at powerup, it has all the conditions it checks during operation that would set DTC codes and the general tendancy of cpu's to work correctly or not at all. I would suggest before you do that to get the electronic diagnosis manual. Someone said it has procedures for checking all of the sensors. The manual would be a lot cheaper than replacing stuff to see what happens.