Here's the context of my situation. I've been studying the archives of this forum after the fact, and would have done things differently had I done my homework prior to mods. But I already have what I have for a combination and just want to make the best of it. Here's the series of events:

Had my dealer install the Stage III SE 103 kit w/259e cams, the SE Pro Super Tuner was installed at the same time with an "appropriate" map.

Extremely bummed with how crappy it ran, I took it to an indie tech with no Dyno who put a PCIII on it and showed me a little bit about how it functions. It ran better but got very poor mileage, so I messed with the map at home and got it where it felt good and not quite as bad on gas.

Dealer later asks how my bike is running and I explain my disappointment, and how I was pissed when initially told (when I picked it up) that it would cost me even more money to get it dyno tuned to make it run right. Told them about the PC III installation and they offered to cover the dyno tune, remove the PCIII and "do it right" with the Super Tuner, and apologized for my experiences. I'm not too upset with the dealer at this point, they tried to make things right, but I'm not satisfied with it.....

Dealer "tuned" bike and now it doesn't feel quite as strong going through the gears as it did with the PCIII. The dyno sheet is disappointing, didn't know how to put it on here as neatly as everyone else but took a picture below. Basically he made it run about the same at full throttle as it did with the PCIII, and normal driving feels "okay" but definitely not right by the arm-stretch-o-meter. I noticed the AFR line on the dyno sheet was around 14.6 which seems to be a clue after reading posts on here about the subject. It had about 40 miles on it from when it was dropped off, and less than 2 hours elapsed time on the dyno sheets. Said he used the auto tune, ran it through the gears a couple times and some WOT passes, should be good to go. Feels lean to me....

My first preference is find a *real* tuner tech within an easy day's ride, and gladly pay the price to have it done right. I don't know who can be trusted. I live a little ways north of Kansas City MO, and there are dynos all over the place in MO, IA, KS NE, but who knows how to really use one?

I could reinstall the PC III and just add fuel a little at a time until it feels good, but it would be guesswork and consumes time that I could be doing something more profitable.

Could try ied's to richen it up, have read all the posts on here about them and think it's possible they could do the trick, but it's not the pro way to go.

Could get the Super Tuner software and cables and poke around myself, but am unsure what I'd be getting into.

My background is a mechanic (25+ yrs) on cars and trucks, as well as working on older HD's for myself. I had the dealer do the kit because I didn't want to take the time away from other things to do it myself. I work with electronic stuff on trucks and it's not uncomfortable viewing and reprogramming parameters, so poking around with it myself isn't scary, but my first priority is to make the bike run like it should. The bike is an '07 Streetglide, with Rinehart true duals, SE aircleaner upgrade, and the Stage III kit. I average 10,000 miles a year, mostly two-up.

TIA for your consideration!

 

Either the tuner did not have the exhaust probe in the pipe correctly, or there is a problem with the exhaust analyzer itself. It would be near impossible for the bike to actually produce those mixtures on it's own. An A/F ratio of 15:1 under WOT and he let it out the door? What is he thinking.
I am surprised the turner did not make another run or explain to you why they look the way they do. My money is on either the probe sample was being diluted or the analyzer itself has issues.

 

I see a couple of problems off the top of my head.Your tune is not right;A/F ratio looks to be to high.Your package with the 259E cam probably has issues.That's alot of cam if your comp is not right.You didn't state what your comp was set at?? It's probably not right.It might be an advertised comp, & not actual comp;With that late of a intake close I would say you should definitley be around 10.2-10.5.Your heads should have been cc'd to make sure the comp is right ,along with the proper pistons & head gasket!!

 

The tune from the dealer is likely only going to correct VE tables and and should not be considered a performance tune. Closed loop areas will still be lean at 14.6, and open loop areas will run at whatever value is set in the AFR table.

You just need to find a good tuner that can use the SESTP.

 

The kit included 10.5 pistons, I doubt anything was cc'd. But it did pull stronger and have good low-end driveability with the PCIII, so I'm looking to simply make the best of what I already have in there.

A good tuner tech was first on my list, so any suggestions there would be appreciated. Have considered taking three days and riding to visit Fuelmoto in Wisconsin next spring, but sure would like to find someone closer

 

In the meantime... go get the dongle cable and fix this yourself. You've already proven, by use of the PCIII to add fuel, that your issue is the tune.

There is plenty of membership help here and posted info that can help you smooth out and raise your curve and give you better throttle response than the earthquake on that dyno sheet.

 

10.5 is an advertised compression.call Doc at HDMD tuning center to see if he has trained any tuners in your area!!!

 

Thanks for that tips, I'll be in touch with Doc and in the meantime researching what I can find here about DIY use of the super tuner.

 

Should I get the SE training DVD when I get the software and cables?
Thanks

 

Is there supposed to be a valve spring change with that (259E) cam @ .579 lift?

Al