Fuse Block Mess - Need Help
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
Fuse Block Mess - Need Help
Well, I'm ashamed I have to post this. I take pride in my work, but I've butchered this easy project. Last summer I installed an amp and ran a power wire to the 15A radio fuse on the fuse block. To save time I installed the wire on the front of the block and inserted the fuse. No issues.
I decided to clean this up and install the power wire to the rear of the fuse panel block and didn't realize what I got myself into. Thinking there were individual terminals that could be snapped out the back, I created a mess. I realized the terminals were connected in rows across the back and so I tried to remove the whole row. The mess is now even worse.
How do I remove a row of terminals and properly replace them? What parts and tools do I need? How do I do this right?
Pictures of the damage enclosed.
I need help! Thanks.
I decided to clean this up and install the power wire to the rear of the fuse panel block and didn't realize what I got myself into. Thinking there were individual terminals that could be snapped out the back, I created a mess. I realized the terminals were connected in rows across the back and so I tried to remove the whole row. The mess is now even worse.
How do I remove a row of terminals and properly replace them? What parts and tools do I need? How do I do this right?
Pictures of the damage enclosed.
I need help! Thanks.
Last edited by atrain68; Jan 1, 2011 at 03:53 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
I've been looking at it and you might be right. That bridge seems like it is integrated with the fuse block. I looked up the part number for the fuse/relay block and if I have the right item selected it's only $21 plus terminals which are pennies each.
Anyone else have an idea? Sure be nice for the easy button fix here.
Anyone else have an idea? Sure be nice for the easy button fix here.
Last edited by atrain68; Jan 1, 2011 at 07:11 PM. Reason: addl info.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,511
Likes: 3,951
From: Vermont
I came up with 70348-08 for $43.60. What pn# did you get?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 9
From: Connecticut
The problem with repairing it is the bridge is the power feed to all the fuses. If there is a joint it is subject to vibration and failure. Do it right the first time so you won't be sorry later on down the road
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
dude, why do you want to jack with the fuse-block?
put your wires back where they go individually, then use gorilla glue in the hole with the wire. that glue will never come undone.
Under your seat somewhere is a orange/red wire that has a grey connector on it. It's a single wire about 12ga in diameter. that is an accessory wire that is more than capable of handling your amp. Just make sure you put a fuse between your connection there and the amp.
put your wires back where they go individually, then use gorilla glue in the hole with the wire. that glue will never come undone.
Under your seat somewhere is a orange/red wire that has a grey connector on it. It's a single wire about 12ga in diameter. that is an accessory wire that is more than capable of handling your amp. Just make sure you put a fuse between your connection there and the amp.
Last edited by UltraNutZ; Jan 2, 2011 at 07:53 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
dude, why do you want to jack with the fuse-block?
put your wires back where they go individually, then use gorilla glue in the hole with the wire. that glue will never come undone.
Under your seat somewhere is a orange/red wire that has a grey connector on it. It's a single wire about 12ga in diameter. that is an accessory wire that is more than capable of handling your amp. Just make sure you put a fuse between your connection there and the amp.
put your wires back where they go individually, then use gorilla glue in the hole with the wire. that glue will never come undone.
Under your seat somewhere is a orange/red wire that has a grey connector on it. It's a single wire about 12ga in diameter. that is an accessory wire that is more than capable of handling your amp. Just make sure you put a fuse between your connection there and the amp.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
Dawg, I'm looking at part number 72204-04 which is Fuse/Relay Block, Bussed (2). This is index number 49 on page 159 in the 2008 Touring Parts Catalog.
Your part number looks like the caddy holding the block. There is a picture of it on page 163, index number 14. I really appreciate you checking.
Your part number looks like the caddy holding the block. There is a picture of it on page 163, index number 14. I really appreciate you checking.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,511
Likes: 3,951
From: Vermont
Dawg, I'm looking at part number 72204-04 which is Fuse/Relay Block, Bussed (2). This is index number 49 on page 159 in the 2008 Touring Parts Catalog.
Your part number looks like the caddy holding the block. There is a picture of it on page 163, index number 14. I really appreciate you checking.
Your part number looks like the caddy holding the block. There is a picture of it on page 163, index number 14. I really appreciate you checking.
Ah yes, I was looking at the wrong page and looking at the caddy
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
After digging deeper it looks the fuse block is bare bones. The fix might be as simple as replacing the female terminal buss, which is the part I tore up.
P/N 72286-04 which is around $6. Tomorrow I will have to talk with a tech and find out the "easy" way to remove this buss row from the fuse block.
Here is what happened. The terminals on the bottom of the picture are removable. The bottom of this buss faces the front of the fuse block and is what the fuses connect with. I thought was backing the terminal out when in fact I was pushing and mangling the buss.
P/N 72286-04 which is around $6. Tomorrow I will have to talk with a tech and find out the "easy" way to remove this buss row from the fuse block.
Here is what happened. The terminals on the bottom of the picture are removable. The bottom of this buss faces the front of the fuse block and is what the fuses connect with. I thought was backing the terminal out when in fact I was pushing and mangling the buss.
Last edited by atrain68; Jan 2, 2011 at 06:44 PM.
