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Old May 6, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #21  
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Wow, after reading through the .pdf that came with the tuner software, reading through the sticky for the SEPST and watching a couple of youtube videos I think I am experiencing information overload...everytime I think I have a good approach for tuning I find something new that adds ten more questions in my head.

Since I didn't have it set to advanced tuneing yesterday I am starting all over this morning. I will set the software for advanced tuning and go make some recorded runs from 0-60mph holding for about 8 seconds at each 5 mph interval as suggested. I'll update the base map with the corrections smarttune suggests.

Anyone care to chime in on the next step? Also, I am assuming that each time I flash the updated map after smart tuning I should continue to check the smarttune box until I am finished tuning?
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #22  
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Okay, I loaded the base map onto the ECM and then recorded about three runs holding steady throttle every 5 mph up through the gears and updated the map with those generated by smarttune. I also did one run at WOT in 4th, 5th and 6th gears and updated the map on the bike. What's my next step? I have not changed the AFR settings. Most are set to 14.6 still.
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by YellowHawk
Okay, I loaded the base map onto the ECM and then recorded about three runs holding steady throttle every 5 mph up through the gears and updated the map with those generated by smarttune. I also did one run at WOT in 4th, 5th and 6th gears and updated the map on the bike. What's my next step? I have not changed the AFR settings. Most are set to 14.6 still.
Just keep repeating what you are doing. When the bike starts having very minimal cells it wants to change you are there. Go out and do some differn't types of riding. Cruise like you normally do. Do some heavy roll ons starting at lower RPM's. Eventually you will make corrections to all the cells, or damn near all of them. then you'll notice that the cells won't need/want any changes, or very minimal ones. When you acheive that you can set your AFR tables and enjoy.

So, have you npticed any improvements with what you have done so far?
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #24  
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Harleytuner, yes I have noticed improvement. The throttle response seems smoother and more responsive than before.
So each time I save changes to the map and load it to the bike, should I always check the enable smarttune?
When I see very few changes being made how do I approach setting the correct AFR?
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #25  
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Wish I had seen your post the other day instead of today...........You might want to consider--or return and purchase a Thundermax from Zippers (available from many places) This thing is the best out there.....automatically tunes itself. Their online tutorial makes it simple to do--trust me I'm not a genius but it really is easy. I've a few friends who junked their SE setups and PC boxes and never looked back. Educate yourself and go online to see it. You won't be sorry.
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by YellowHawk
Harleytuner, yes I have noticed improvement. The throttle response seems smoother and more responsive than before.
So each time I save changes to the map and load it to the bike, should I always check the enable smarttune?
When I see very few changes being made how do I approach setting the correct AFR?
Yes, check the smarttune everytime untill you are satified with your tune. When you are ready to adjust the AFR tables I can post an example of where I set mine when I get done tuning. You are basically doing what we do on te dyno. Only smarttune calibrates the ECM to 14.6:1 and on the Dyno I calibrate the ECM to 13.0:1. Once we "teach" (calibrate) the VE tables to a known AFR we can then tell the AFR table in the MAP what AFR we want to "target". You are/will be getting familiar with RPM ranges and throttle positions by smarttuning, when we get into the AFR table we will be using RPM and MAP load. To give you an example, your bike idles at around 1000 RPM's between 30 and 40 kpa (MAP LOAD). Cruising at 55 MPH in 5th gear you are about 3200 RPM's and right around 40 MAP LOAD, the more demand you put on your bike the higher the MAP LOAD will be. So when we set the AFR tables we will want to take a big block of the cells arounf the cruising range and make them fairly lean (14.4 - 14.7) AFR, I usully leave them 14.7 so the bike stays in closed loop for cruising. That way your ECM can make minor adjustments for filters getting dirty etc. These cells will be from around 2000 RPM's to 3000 RPMS from the 30-60 MAP load range. Then I richen them gradually as the load increases. (70 = 14.2, 80 = 13.6 then up to 100 = 13.0) That way the more throttle you give it the more fuel you'll throw at it. That's it in a nut shell. When you adjust your AFR tables you won't hit the enable smarttune box or it will revert everything back to closed loop.
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by fairfax1000
Wish I had seen your post the other day instead of today...........You might want to consider--or return and purchase a Thundermax from Zippers (available from many places) This thing is the best out there.....automatically tunes itself. Their online tutorial makes it simple to do--trust me I'm not a genius but it really is easy. I've a few friends who junked their SE setups and PC boxes and never looked back. Educate yourself and go online to see it. You won't be sorry.
He already has the SE product so I guess you're too late. The SEPST is a very capable tuner and about 3 - 400 bucks less than the Tmax. (which is very capable as well). He is online educating himself with the product he bought right now.
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by YellowHawk
Harleytuner, yes I have noticed improvement. The throttle response seems smoother and more responsive than before.
So each time I save changes to the map and load it to the bike, should I always check the enable smarttune?
When I see very few changes being made how do I approach setting the correct AFR?

sounds like your moving right along .i'm just now getting familiar with everything .
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #29  
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harleytuner, many thanks for all the help so far. I will get out and do some more recorded runs tomorrow. pled55, it is moving along pretty well. So far I have been happy with my choice. I can only say that I am very thankful for the help I have received here because I would be completely lost without it. I can't fairly compare this tuner to the PC3 I don't suppose because I didn't have the PC3 dyno tuned. But I can say that if you are not going to dyno tune right away, the SEPST seems to be a very good choice. Seems like you can get it a lot closer with the SEPST without dyno tuning. The base map I loaded was running better than the can map I was using in the PC3. Again, not knocking the PC3, just like the SEPST better for the way I am using it.
fairfax1000, I cannot return the SEPST. It says on the box that once the seal is broken it cannot be returned. I looked at the Thundermax but it was priced a little higher than what I wanted to shell out right now. Plus I pretty much had it in my mind that I wanted to go with the Screamin' Eagle tuner.
 
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Old May 7, 2011 | 02:23 PM
  #30  
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I made a few more runs today and recorded info. I attached a couple of pictures...the picture are the VE table for the front cylinder before smarttune update and a pic of the smarttune suggestions after it was genereated from the recorded files. On pretty much every run values are changing but not by much.

Before update:


Smarttune Suggested Changes:
 
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