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Passing lamps on 2002 FLHPI part II

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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Default Passing lamps on 2002 FLHPI part II

Okay, so I am getting 12 volts to the passing lamps and got new bulbs. Whenever I turn them on it blows the fuse labeled cruise/brakes. There is a 15A fuse there.

I don't think there is a short because a volt meter shows 12 volts getting to the bulb and the fuse does not blow until I actually plug the lamp in. What could be causing the increased load? I am afraid to just put a 20 or 24 amp fuse there as there could be some other issue.

Any hints or suggestions?

-Bennett
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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HI, Bennet

Your solution is pretty simple:
- Where the Flasher used to be (connector 69B) there are three wires:
o GY/BK – that is Power coming from the AUX Switch on the Right Hand Control when AUX is ON
o GY/BN – that is a Power feed to Right Passing lamp
o GY/V- that is a Power Feed to Left Passing Lamp
- Grounding of the Passing Lamps is through Chassis! You don’t need any GND wires going to the passing lamps!
- Now, connect together all three wires listed above, wrap them up well for insulation – and you are in business!

Your fuse should not blow if you ‘ve wired everything as described, the current draw of the passing lamps is below 6.0A total (unless you are using some other bulbs?). Make sure your bulbs do not exceed 35W each, otherwise you’ll be blowing fuses.

Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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Thanks, going through it now. The person who did the wiring after retiring it as a police bike should be taken out back and shot. There is a big mess of taped wires by the batter that I need to unravel.

-Bennett
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by frogbite
Thanks, going through it now. The person who did the wiring after retiring it as a police bike should be taken out back and shot. There is a big mess of taped wires by the batter that I need to unravel.

-Bennett
Now-now, Bennet, don’t be so blood-thirsty! J)

Check connector 70A, pin 6, wire GN/R – make sure that wire is NOT GROUNDED!

That connector was for the Siren Amplifier, who knows what the guy did when removing the amplifier. If that wire is somehow grounded that would explain blowing the pursuit/ brake fuse.
That wire should not be connected anywhere, it will not be used on your bike.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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Found the wires you mentioned before and they are connected together. Now checking the GN/R to see if it is grounded.

Thanks,

-Bennett
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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If the siren amplifier was grounded wouldn't it blow as soon as I hit the switch? Still going to check it, but wondering.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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"Your fuse should not blow if you ‘ve wired everything as described, the current draw of the passing lamps is below 6.0A total (unless you are using some other bulbs?). Make sure your bulbs do not exceed 35W each, otherwise you’ll be blowing fuses".

That is clearly not true. I run 55 watt h3 bulbs in the passling lights on my 07FLHP. Have never blown a fuse. Did the same on 96 Fat Boy. Never had an issue.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FLHP1034ME
"Your fuse should not blow if you ‘ve wired everything as described, the current draw of the passing lamps is below 6.0A total (unless you are using some other bulbs?). Make sure your bulbs do not exceed 35W each, otherwise you’ll be blowing fuses".

That is clearly not true. I run 55 watt h3 bulbs in the passling lights on my 07FLHP. Have never blown a fuse. Did the same on 96 Fat Boy. Never had an issue.
You are correct, on your police vehicle you have a separate fuse and you can run up to 65W of passing lamps. On some bikes the passing lamps are on the same circuit with the head lamp and all other lighting and there is not much juice left.
Also, keep in mind that the hand control switches are rated to 15A max.

What did you find out?
You say that the fuse blows when you put the bulb in? That's very strange, take a look at the socket of the bulb. Check if you'll have the fuse blown if connecting only one bulb at a time.
Per schematics the only thing connected to that fuse should be your passing lights and the brake light. What is the load on the brake light? Or your buddy has connected something else to that fuse?

Use this rule - the maximum wattage of all bulbs connected to 15A fuse should be below 160W. Your two passing lights already make 110W.

Look for what else is not working when the fuse is blown?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Thanks, I did not have a chance to check the wire that went to the siren amplifier yet but here is what I did test. With both passing lamps out I hooked up a brake light bulb by touching the positive to the bottom (single filament) and the common to the side. This blew the 15 amp fuse. If I hit the brakes the fuse does not blow but the brake lights come on.

I then connected a smaller dash bulb the same way as I did the brake light bulb and it lit up fine. If I test continuity/resistance between the hot lead on both wires coming from the switch to wiring harness it does not show anything as far as a short. Well at least with the lamp housing.

If I were to measure the amps on the circuit what would be a good place to do that at? I was going to get a socket for the brake light bulb and wire it to the passing lamp wires and test the amps to see what it is pulling. I know the smaller bulb will be less than 15amps total, just not sure why the bigger bulb would blow the fuse unless the smaller one is just below 15 amps with everything else.

Thanks, you have been extremely helpful.

-Bennett
 

Last edited by frogbite; Dec 13, 2011 at 11:01 AM. Reason: Making it more technically accurate.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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I guess I could test it between the socket and the wire going to the socket.
 
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