Advice Needed - Limp Mode?
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 867
Likes: 17
From: Brentwood, TN
Advice Needed - Limp Mode?
Have an 18 month old 2011 Ultra Limited with FM Stage 1 tuned with PowerVision. Bike has about 10,000 trouble free miles. Sunday while out riding with a friend, light cruising about 40 mph in 60 degree weather, we pulled into a lot for a quick rest stop for about 5 minutes. Bike was not hot with oil temp reading about 220 degrees. When I started the bike back up it went into a low power mode I think may hve been "limp mode". Only had about 1/4 power and would not rev above 2000 rpm. Shut it down and called dealership which service was closed but parts counter open. They advised it was normally caused by heat whch was not an issue this time but it would likely reset if left off for about 10 minutes. It did reset and I finished my ride for the day.
Question, bike is still in warranty, should I take it to service, should I check the plug down around TB that I hear usually causes this, should I connect my PV and check for codes? Or was this just a fluke due to turning off and restarting and likely never happen again? What do ya'll think is appropriate thing to check?
Question, bike is still in warranty, should I take it to service, should I check the plug down around TB that I hear usually causes this, should I connect my PV and check for codes? Or was this just a fluke due to turning off and restarting and likely never happen again? What do ya'll think is appropriate thing to check?
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: chicago
do you get this figured out? mine ddi the exact same thing to me today. started it up after sitting for day, got about a block away from the house. stop sign. no power. engine light on will not rev up past 2000 rpm. got it home, took the truck to run my errands, hour later stared it back up and its like nothing was ever wrong with it.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 704
Likes: 23
From: on the mud flats on the edge of slum city
The plug at the throttle body is the culprit most of the time.......but not always
However pulling that plug and giving the contacts a clean and using some dielectric grease seems to fix the problem.
If not doing the same at the ECM under the seat can also help and I should point out that since doing both to my 2009 Ultra in 2009 I have not had the problem reoccur.
However pulling that plug and giving the contacts a clean and using some dielectric grease seems to fix the problem.
If not doing the same at the ECM under the seat can also help and I should point out that since doing both to my 2009 Ultra in 2009 I have not had the problem reoccur.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 386
Likes: 3
From: Easley, South Carolina
check the trouble code using the speedometer diagnostics by Pushing the odometer button and turn the ignition switch on.
You should see
P S S P E
one or more of the above maybe flashing and if it is press your odometer button and write down what codes you may have present.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTy_JKI9cQ0
Current Root Cause Investigation It is believed that fretting corrosion is a major contributor, Poor ECM connections seem to be the most likely cause.
When this hapened to me we were in the left hand lane of thick traffic riding along at 80 mph when she went into limp mode.
You may not have the same situation as I did but until you retrieve your codes you will not know. Your bike stores these codes until its told to reset to zero.
Let us know what you find.
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing
speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting
sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range
and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should
illuminate. The word diag should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with
the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing
is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module)
to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back
to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module, 'Carbureted')
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button
in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be
displayed or the word none will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset
button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTCs are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part
number of module will be displayed.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sportster-models/685326-run-your-own-diagnostics.html
You should see
P S S P E
one or more of the above maybe flashing and if it is press your odometer button and write down what codes you may have present.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTy_JKI9cQ0
Current Root Cause Investigation It is believed that fretting corrosion is a major contributor, Poor ECM connections seem to be the most likely cause.
When this hapened to me we were in the left hand lane of thick traffic riding along at 80 mph when she went into limp mode.
You may not have the same situation as I did but until you retrieve your codes you will not know. Your bike stores these codes until its told to reset to zero.
Let us know what you find.
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing
speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting
sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range
and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should
illuminate. The word diag should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with
the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing
is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module)
to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back
to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module, 'Carbureted')
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button
in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be
displayed or the word none will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset
button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTCs are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part
number of module will be displayed.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sportster-models/685326-run-your-own-diagnostics.html
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 3
I had a similar issue on my 11 EGC. Look at this thread if you find that the codes are the same.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...511-p2101.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...511-p2101.html
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