I've got my tmax installed on the bike and waiting for an oil pressure gauge before I run it. At first I was intimidated with all the map loading thing so I had Bart (shooter64) preload a map. I don't know what # it is yet as I havn't linked to the module at this point. With this waiting period I have been playing with the software, learned how to change settings in the maps should the day come. No map is 100% perfect but close is good enough to get it running and running very well in most cases. If some day I feel that I need better mileage I now won't be scared shitless to go in there and tweek it. The more you play with the maps, read the instructions the more it all starts to make sense. Lots of people on the forum with experience that can help out if you get stuck as well. If I'm not mistaken you are using a Terminal Velocity at the moment and are happy with it, but you appear to have a tmax bug as well. It's too late for you, just order the damn thing and join the crowd. You know you waaaaant it.
Ron

 

where can i find a list of the available base maps?

 

Thanks Ron. I've spent too much money on false hope. Got talked into the PCIII and ended up with problems that Dyna couldn't fix (me and a small bunch of owners). Lost a couple of hundred on Dyno time. Jamie refunded my money, thank God. Tried the Sert, it was OK. Expensive, about $700 with the dyno tune. That was on my previous bike an 07 Wide Glide. The TVII does work, better than the PCIII for sure. But I am always looking for something better. I think it is an additional gene that Bikers have that they always have to keep trying new stuff.

I realize your suppose to start out with a close base map. But with the small collection of maps they have, I really don't see how one can possibly pick a close map. As long as this thing has been around and as many people who have tried it, you'd think they would have a pretty extensive collection by now.

I choose the TVII for simplicity. Thats why I shy away from the SERT. It's too technical and complicated. It's damn good and can do anything you want, if you know how. I just want simple.

Thats why I was interested in the Tmax. With wide band sensors and a device called autotune it sounded too good to be true. I don't want to mess with the AFR tables, or the timing. I just want to install the unit and let it's computer brain take over and dial the bike in. I just don't find it fun to take a ride and be distracted by having to make mental notes while riding. Example: Bike popped on decel, richen up the decel mode. Fuel mileage was 34 mpg. Up the AFR in cruise range. What's the point of calling it autotune if you have to keep tuning it yourself?

Now don't get me wrong, I've read owners statements that just installed the device and it improved over time by itself. That's why I am still here looking for answers.

I'm glad for the people who are enjoying their units. But I do see older posts on other forums by some of the same people who weren't always so happy. They had to tweak their way there. Which brings me back to the word "autotune".

You know when the forums were full of discussions about the IDS I was intriqued by them. I really didn't have a complaint with my bike. But the overwhelming 100% positive response to the IDS was too much to bear and my spare Gene kicked in and I had to have one. It turned out to be the best money I have spent to date.

I just don't see that type of response to the Tmax up to date. True there are a lot of people Happy, but there are almost daily new posts coming along with people who have problems, or are not totally happy for various reasons. Now I have taken the time to look at the software, and I am not over whelmedwith the word "simple". $700 is a lot of money.

Just another thought I had. Why do they make these things with ancient technology and put a serial port on it, instead of USB? Same question to HD and their SERT.

If you guys lived around the corner and could make this thing work then maybe I would give it a try.

I hope no one is offended by my remarks as I am not trying to knock the unit. I try to always be an educated buyer. I study expensive things long and hard before I leap ahead. I have questions and see things that put up a red flag. Doesn't mean its no good, just means I myself have not been totally convinced yet.

I still hope one of you can direct me by telling me what my base map would be.

Thank you.

 

Have you tried calling Zippers and asked for help for your particular application?I purchase my unit directly from Zippers, paid a little more,and they asked me a series of questions about the mods I have done to my bike and the unit came tomewith my base map already loaded, all I had to do was plug it into the computer turn the ignition on/off a few times and then I was on the road. I have been run the unit for about 150 miles so far and have been quite pleased. For me I don't feel the need to tinker unless there is something wrong. Just my $.02. By the way it took me about eight months to finally convince myself to pull the trigger and spend that much money!

[IMG]local://upfiles/23823/6A07FA3554E04555859984FDB4B1C75D.jpg[/IMG]

 

cruiser85257, I'd never heard of the Terminal Velocity controller before so thanks for the info. Just did a little searching on the Terry Components website and it sounds interesting but the model for '08 touring bikes is still pending. Now I gotta add another fuel tuner to my growing list to be reviewed. It's getting harder to make a decision on which way to go. I sure miss carbs!

 

Thanks Floridamk. I appreciate the feedback. If I was at the beginning of this adventure, I'd pull the trigger. I have been through so much crap its not funny. First the dealer puts the wrong Cobra unit on my bike, and that was the beginning up till the sixth visit there and they dropped my bike off the lift while changing oil. Power commander, I fell into a small group of people who has a bad hesitation just off idle.They couldn't fix it, so refund time. That was my last Bike the 07 Wide Glide. I haven't been back there since leaving with the new SG. Took it to an Indy for my 1st 1000 mile service.

I wish I could ride a Bike that has a Tmax on it just for comparision. This is my second HD in a long time. Having been riding Metrics for all those years I really have no idea what is normal on these bikes. The Tech at the Indy where I had it serviced was quite impressed with the way the Bike ran. To me it seems Hot, but my last Metric was water cooled so who knows?

BCGUY: I'm with you Brother. I miss the Hell out of my HSR 42mm. I wish someone would come up with a kit to convert these back to carbs.

 

Well, in my case I rode my bike stock for the first season but was not happy with heat and felt power could be better. Looked at all the possible tuners during he season including TV. Read tons of posts on how much it costs to dyno tune along with a fuel management system and having someone do it like the sert.I'm not really impressed with dealer skill levels from what I've seen at my dealership so that's a no go. Then there's the guys that have tried most of them only to end up with the tmax in the end. Mind you the tmax for what I have done to the bike so far is a little overkill but in time I'm sure more and more will be added. You can only get so much out of a piggyback system like for example a fuel pack. I didn't want to spend 400 plus on that and down the road end up getting a tmax to get it all to work. The autotune is somewhat misleading from the basic knowledge I have with the unit. I could be wrong but it will not give you the best afr for power, or a leaner afr for cruising. Those points need to be in the map or target points changed by the owner to his or here liking. The autotune will smooth the transitions between set target points. I don't think it will invent new ones on it's own out of the blue that arebelow or above set points except for weather andtemp changes, but they will reflect the original target. For example if you set 14.2 for cruise rpm ranges it won't on its own decide 14.7 feels better today, with theonlyexception the day is hot and humid End result is the afr will be still 14.2 but 14.7 is targeted with the thinner air to maintain it otherwise it would runricher. The opposite is true with cold dry air. Autotune may drop it to 13.8 in order to keep the original map setting of 14.2 afr. These figures arejust examples but you can see that without02 sensorsthe bike would change afrs with the weather even though the settings in the map didn't.If I'm wrong on this, I will be corrected and that's fine because I will learn even more from people more qualified than me. Based on the map selections, yes could be more considering how many V&H pipes are out there but apparently close is good enough.Heads cams and throttle bodies seem to be the biggest consideration. Breather and exhaust less so. Again, I have chosen a map for you but I'm not going to give it to you. That takes all the fun out of it.
Ron

 

I am certainly no Tmax expert, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

I think too much is made of this base map thing.

Please feel free to correct me, but this is the way I understand Tmax with autotune:

The base map selection has ATF offsets that start you out closer to the final tune than if you just started with a generic map. It will take less time to get a good tune for your setup. It will also run better sooner since the leaned offsets are already closer.

To answer your questions:

I would start with map #403 for your setup. I also think #404 would work. I believe #403 would get to a good tune faster and make your bike run pretty good even on your first ride.

Compare both maps under the Air/Fuel-TPS @ RPM on the left side of the Smartlink software window. The target AFR points are exactly the same for both maps.

The base map is just a starting point.

Your USB question is valid. But, the serial technology is probably deeply rooted in both the Smartlink software and the Tmax unit itself. I think the Tmax system has been around for a while. The autotune feature came along later if I understand right. I bet it would take a significant and costly re-write of the Smartlink software to change to a USB interface. They would also need to re-design the hardware to include the USB interface. I bet the hardware re-design would be very expensive also.

I think this falls under the, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it philosophy.

They sell an inexpensive serial-to-USB adapter that works with the system. I think they should include this adapter at no cost. I think it cost them sales. People think this is a problem. It’s not. I picked my adapter up for less than $10 on eBay.

As far a tinkering with the settings, there is really no need to do that. I think it is just something that some if not most of us Harley owners can’t resist doing. We feel we need that last ¼ HP or extra ½ mpg gain. And it’s fun.

I am not saying that Tmax is the only good system with an autotune style feature, but I am saying that this style of EFI system is far better than other more simple versions. I had around $500 in the Power Commander III (PCIII) system including dyno time. It ran good, but not great. Just one more dyno tune and I would have spent more money on the PCIII system than the Tmax cost.

The bottom line:

Just install the system, load the closest base map, and ride. How much simpler can it be?

[font="times new

 

Oh come on Ron, please...pretty please...lol

 

Ah chit, did you have to say please? Add 391 to the list rahall added. All of these should work. lets face it, other than initial startup where more fuel is needed, a setting of 13.5 across the board will probably work reasonably well.
Ron