TTS Newbie
I have looked through parts of the dedicated TTS thread, but to be honest its a bit long and unmanageable. So please bear with me, baby steps.
I have used the SE Race tuner on two previous bikes to good effect, but with my new ride decided to go with TTS, partly due to some advice in the forums. I must admit that having to cart a laptop about for the TTS is a backwards step compared to the race tuner but that's another story.
I have a basic working knowledge of AFR, VE and most of the terms that are shared between the RT and the TTS, although there are some new tables in the TTS that I am not familiar with. I will get back to that later I am sure.
Before I actually connect to the ECU I and save the original calibration, I will be fitting an Arlen Ness Big Sucker and Vance & hines Big Shots with quiet baffles, everything else will be stock.
I have identified two potential base calibration files.........
DAA358-01 which is for aftermarket air cleaner only, and
DAB358-01 which is for aftermarket air cleaner and, 2-1 exhaust with cat-less headers.
I am thinking with the V&H power chamber that DAB358-01 is the closest to my set up.
Is this reasoning correct
Cheers
Last edited by WildBill2566; Jul 26, 2013 at 05:32 AM.
Please tell us the configuration mof your bike. What year, make, model. What size engine? WHat AC you have? WHat pipes? What mufflers? And... do you have cams or a big bore kit.
We will give you a decent pair of starting calibrations after you answer these questions, OK?
The laptop thing will be going away soon for TTS, BTW.
Next month, there will be a decent how-to-do tuning thread using TTS on a Touring bike. Won't be exactly the same as your bike, but most tables will be explained. Also, TTS is a steadier platform to tune with. No worry about the software adding or subtracting timing or fueling controls like CLB that magically change.
Last edited by wurk_truk; Jul 26, 2013 at 11:12 AM.
Please tell us the configuration mof your bike. What year, make, model. What size engine? WHat AC you have? WHat pipes? What mufflers? And... do you have cams or a big bore kit.
We will give you a decent pair of starting calibrations after you answer these questions, OK?
The laptop thing will be going away soon for TTS, BTW.
Next month, there will be a decent how-to-do tuning thread using TTS on a Touring bike. Won't be exactly the same as your bike, but most tables will be explained. Also, TTS is a steadier platform to tune with. No worry about the software adding or subtracting timing or fueling controls like CLB that magically change.
I have the Arlen Ness stage 1 Big Sucker, Vance & Hines big shots with the quiet baffles, everything else stock. Running 98 octane fuel.
The bike is a 2013 Softail Slim, and I would like to achieve a bike that runs as cool as a big old air cooled lump can, has torque where I mostly ride 30 - 80 mph. And retain as far as possible reasonable mpg. Just like most folks I like to feel a bike haul me forward with gusto once in a while but 99 % of the time I just want a rideable bike, so that's not the priority.
Thanks for the hand up.
Paul
Some have complained carrying a laptop is a deal killer, and Flight Recorder is in answer to those complaints. Similar to SEPST, in this one regard... the TTS will be able to record up to ten hours of data, and turning the bike on and off will simply start a new recording. It will be pretty slick for sure.
I have a question for you to ponder.... do you think that you would be willing to swap cams? Even after your warranty is out? WIth a good stage1 and a set of cams, you really should be able to attain your stated goals, as far as how the bike will run.
In the mean time, the TTS will be able to dial in quite a bit of your tune. Once involved, it truly is not as hard as it seems.
80s! That sounds very nice, and today... I am mid 70s in Ohio, USA.
Wait for the thread next month, and some of your questions will be answered... then we can address what YOU wish to do, My Friend!!!
Last edited by wurk_truk; Jul 27, 2013 at 05:47 PM.
Thanks ill follow the thread and I'm sure there will be further questions.
Cam change, yes I would consider it, just wait and see how the 2013 engine and primary stand up. There is a possibility that when the 96 was taken out to a bigger displacement and tuned, some folks had issues with reliability. Not convinced one way or the other at the moment.
I had the non SE comp and auto primary adjuster on my RK for 24000 miles and it killed the Inner Primary Bearing which when I took it out I could see had started to scuff. I think I cured the problem, and will be loosing the auto adjuster on the slim after the 1000 mile first service.








