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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Update.
Did all the tests from the stickies in the DIY section. Two questions though. When I tested the stator across the pins, I got either 00.0 or .OL, that was at idle and at about 2k rpm. Not sure what that means. Overload? There were a couple of times that I got a momentary actual number flash on the screen but it was never steady, .731 one time 941.3 another, just wildly erratic. Also when I tested each pin seperately and ground out to the frame with the other lead, I got 0.L. Both of those were ohms readings. One read a little different than the other. Not sure what they mean and what the difference between .OL and o.L. My tester is an autoranging type.
Help!!
Last edited by bassistbiker; Oct 24, 2013 at 09:14 AM.
Update.
Did all the tests from the stickies in the DIY section. Two questions though. When I tested the stator across the pins, I got either 00.0 or .OL, that was at idle and at about 2k rpm. Not sure what that means. Overload? There were a couple of times that I got a momentary actual number flash on the screen but it was never steady, .731 one time 941.3 another, just wildly erratic. Also when I tested each pin seperately and ground out to the frame with the other lead, I got 0.L. Both of those were ohms readings. One read a little different than the other. Not sure what they mean and what the difference between .OL and o.L. My tester is an autoranging type.
Help!!
When testing the stator output across the pins (pin to pin) you should be reading AC Volts. About 16-20 at idle...goes up with RPMs. If you read overload on this test maybe the meter wasn't in autorange mode. If you were measuring resistance (ohms)...don't do it with the engine running. It's dangerous and you may burn out the meter.
When testing continuity (resistance to ground) OL indicates infinite resistance (open circuit). So apparently no phases were shorted to ground. A short would read low resistance (<1 ohm).
Most autoranging meters (like Fluke 87) can be set to manual. In manual mode OL means go up in range. In autorange it means open circuit.
Did you read output voltage pin-pin. If so what did you measure?
When testing the stator output across the pins (pin to pin) you should be reading AC Volts. About 16-20 at idle...goes up with RPMs. If you read overload on this test maybe the meter wasn't in autorange mode. If you were measuring resistance (ohms)...don't do it with the engine running. It's dangerous and you may burn out the meter.
When testing continuity (resistance to ground) OL indicates infinite resistance (open circuit). So apparently no phases were shorted to ground. A short would read low resistance (<1 ohm).
Most autoranging meters (like Fluke 87) can be set to manual. In manual mode OL means go up in range. In autorange it means open circuit.
Did you read output voltage pin-pin. If so what did you measure?
Ah! I must have missed that part about not running the engine! Anyway, the meter seems to be ok. I did actually check ac output, at 2k it was like 57, 58. At idle about 27. This is meter is an Equus Innova 3320. It was a mid priced one at autozone. But it does have the ability to go manual.
So with all that said, resistance testing done wrong not withstanding, it sounds like the stator is not shorted out?
And, hey, I really appreciate all of your advice!
Ah! I must have missed that part about not running the engine! Anyway, the meter seems to be ok. I did actually check ac output, at 2k it was like 57, 58. At idle about 27. This is meter is an Equus Innova 3320. It was a mid priced one at autozone. But it does have the ability to go manual.
So with all that said, resistance testing done wrong not withstanding, it sounds like the stator is not shorted out?
And, hey, I really appreciate all of your advice!
The stator appears to be OK. It's not shorted and output looks good. That means the voltage regulator is most likely bad.
Yeah, I guess so. I'm gonna do that resistance test properly when I get back home. But I've already got a return authorization on the regulator. I honestly appreciate the guidance. Saved me a ton in diagnostic fees!
Yeah, I guess so. I'm gonna do that resistance test properly when I get back home. But I've already got a return authorization on the regulator. I honestly appreciate the guidance. Saved me a ton in diagnostic fees!
Forgot to update. I know ya'll have been bitin' your nails in suspense! Got a new regulator from the hd dealer, running beautifully. Cost me twice as much, but I guess this is one of those cases where you get what you pay for. No more electricals off ebay for me.
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