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2000 Super Glide
I was only getting like 10 volts to the battery at 2500 RPMs. Had battery charged on a trickle, checked good at Advance under a load. No stator smell, really seemed like voltage regulator. Got one from ebay (not a HD part), put it on and at first it seemed all was well. Drove it to work today and speedo began getting weird. First of al, it didn't register my speed at all. Then the odometer starte flashing at me. Then it went dark. This all during the first 20 minutes of riding (nothing but open road and highway speeds). In town, however, speedo started working very intermittently. I get work and let it cool. Just checked voltage at the battery, 12.3. But at idle, 17.7, 17.8, 17.9 steady climbing. That's obviouslt too much. Still no stator smell. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
No one's touching this one, huh? Lol. I had a thought, though. Maybe someone will chime in on it, maybe put me on the right path. The main circuit breaker. Could that be an issue?
2000 Super Glide
I was only getting like 10 volts to the battery at 2500 RPMs. Had battery charged on a trickle, checked good at Advance under a load. No stator smell, really seemed like voltage regulator. Got one from ebay (not a HD part), put it on and at first it seemed all was well. Drove it to work today and speedo began getting weird. First of al, it didn't register my speed at all. Then the odometer starte flashing at me. Then it went dark. This all during the first 20 minutes of riding (nothing but open road and highway speeds). In town, however, speedo started working very intermittently. I get work and let it cool. Just checked voltage at the battery, 12.3. But at idle, 17.7, 17.8, 17.9 steady climbing. That's obviouslt too much. Still no stator smell. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
If you're sure the regulator is good...It's probably a bad stator.
There are several tests you can run to diagnose the issue before you tear into it. Look in the Do It Yourself forum under Electrical and Lighting for tests and specifics.
Thanks for the advice man! I was hoping against stator. But I will check out those testing procedures. Just curious though, if it is the stator and its putting out too much, shouldn't a "good" voltage reg stop it from passing through to the battery? Maybe I got my hands on a bad reg.
Take time out to visit the DIY Electrical section, where you will find a couple of Stickies, which will help you diagnose your charging problem. They should remove the guesswork and identify or confirm what it wrong.
Thanks for the advice man! I was hoping against stator. But I will check out those testing procedures. Just curious though, if it is the stator and its putting out too much, shouldn't a "good" voltage reg stop it from passing through to the battery? Maybe I got my hands on a bad reg.
Thanks again.
Stator may be shorted to ground bypassing the regulator or phases shorted together creating too much voltage for the regulator to handle. Test procedures will isolate the failure mode. Testing will isolate the failure mode.
Last edited by nhrider1; Oct 22, 2013 at 11:56 AM.
Reason: clarify
Thanks for the tips. I printed out the stickies from the DIY section. Great info there. Gonna check it all tonight after work. Gut feeling is it is a grounding issue. I shall see. I will report back. Thanks again, guys.
The regulator action is akin to a fence with uneven boards. If a circ saw, set to a predetermined height is run along the top only those pieces above the limit will be trimmed off. Any pieces below the limit will be unaffected. The reg's output is predetermined at around 14.5vdc. Anything above this is shunted to chassis ground. The more the stator produces the greater the shunt action and the greater the heat. The point is that the reg's o/p does not vary beyond its design limits. If it does then there is a problem. The other job of the reg is to rectify the a/c produced by the stator. The greater the freq (RPM) the easier it is for this action to take place (less ripple). Electronics do not like ripple in a power supply due to the fact they're digital with a logic level of only several volts. The ripple introduces abiguity in the circuits quiescent state.
The regulator action is akin to a fence with uneven boards. If a circ saw, set to a predetermined height is run along the top only those pieces above the limit will be trimmed off. Any pieces below the limit will be unaffected. The reg's output is predetermined at around 14.5vdc. Anything above this is shunted to chassis ground. The more the stator produces the greater the shunt action and the greater the heat. The point is that the reg's o/p does not vary beyond its design limits. If it does then there is a problem. The other job of the reg is to rectify the a/c produced by the stator. The greater the freq (RPM) the easier it is for this action to take place (less ripple). Electronics do not like ripple in a power supply due to the fact they're digital with a logic level of only several volts. The ripple introduces abiguity in the circuits quiescent state.
Great description. I was actually with you until you got to logic level and quiescent state! lol
But if I'm hearing you correctly, then my theory of a grounding issue might be true? That or I have a bad voltage regulator.
Great description. I was actually with you until you got to logic level and quiescent state! lol
But if I'm hearing you correctly, then my theory of a grounding issue might be true? That or I have a bad voltage regulator.
The regulator cannot work effectively without being properly grounded, either through the mounting or a separate cable behind one of the mounting bolts (to a proper ground). A poorly grounded reg's o/p will prob fluctuate even if the reg was not defective.
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