fixed tach and ignition
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Joined: Apr 2007
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fixed tach and ignition
hi all ;well i got a new ignition system an(oltima )the other day an so i changed from dual to single fire what a difference. after trying to time the bike (still haven't fine tuned it yet) the bike runs smoother and shakes less. I set the timing plate in the middle and turned the spark advance to max. thats as far as i know how to do it the instructions were kinda vauge. the tach works fine all the way up to 7000 without bouncing all over the place the old system was a dyna electronic points and dyna said when i grounded out the coil i screwed something up in the system. so much for a 150 bucks. does anyone know how to time this type of ignition system(oltima) and set the plug gap( i went to .45 ) still havent straightened out the front end wife giving me a head ache. so ill wait till one of my sons comes over. oh I have trouble getting the bike in neutral when it runs. with the engine off i can find neutral. any suggestions? she will not go into third or fourth gear when the bike is idling or the engine is off. shifts fine when im riding. is this normal for this year and type of bike? can only get it into first or second when sitting. take all ride safe larry
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: fixed tach and ignition
solitaryman54......
Just nail 4 pieces of 2x4 together so that the front tire can sit in a track. That should hold the front wheel straight while you align everything. Let the wife rest.
You are correct in setting the base plate in the middle of the slots to get the machine started. Warm up the engine and use a timing light on the hole in the leftside crankcase with the plastic plug inserted. At 2000 rpms the slash mark should be in the center of the hole. (Actually, anywhere in the hole will be close enough.) Rotate the base plate to make the slash appear and then center it as best you can. This mark is infamously difficult to see, so you will have to really look close for the image. Point 045 gap seems wide to me. I would set the plugs at no more than .030.
All Sportsters shift easier when the engine is running and the parts are moving. I would not be concerned about having trouble shifting into 3rd and 4th when it is stopped. So, the answer is.......... all is normal.
As for not being able to find neutral with the engine running....This is because the clutch is dragging a bit. This puts a constant load on the clutch/transmission which makes it difficult to find neutral.
How much slack do you have at the clutch lever? There should only be about 1/8 inch free play. If you have more than that adjust the cable to give you 1/8 inch. Better now?
If it is not, then you may want to pull the primary case off and check the pressure plate to see if it wobbles some. If it does, that is causing the drag and you need to align the plate and readjust the cable slack to 1/8 inch.........pg
Just nail 4 pieces of 2x4 together so that the front tire can sit in a track. That should hold the front wheel straight while you align everything. Let the wife rest.
You are correct in setting the base plate in the middle of the slots to get the machine started. Warm up the engine and use a timing light on the hole in the leftside crankcase with the plastic plug inserted. At 2000 rpms the slash mark should be in the center of the hole. (Actually, anywhere in the hole will be close enough.) Rotate the base plate to make the slash appear and then center it as best you can. This mark is infamously difficult to see, so you will have to really look close for the image. Point 045 gap seems wide to me. I would set the plugs at no more than .030.
All Sportsters shift easier when the engine is running and the parts are moving. I would not be concerned about having trouble shifting into 3rd and 4th when it is stopped. So, the answer is.......... all is normal.
As for not being able to find neutral with the engine running....This is because the clutch is dragging a bit. This puts a constant load on the clutch/transmission which makes it difficult to find neutral.
How much slack do you have at the clutch lever? There should only be about 1/8 inch free play. If you have more than that adjust the cable to give you 1/8 inch. Better now?
If it is not, then you may want to pull the primary case off and check the pressure plate to see if it wobbles some. If it does, that is causing the drag and you need to align the plate and readjust the cable slack to 1/8 inch.........pg
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
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From:
RE: fixed tach and ignition
I'm having the same problem with not being able to find neutral when my bike (71 XLCH) is running. I have adjusted the clutch as per the instructions in my service manual and checked the pressure plate as well. I am wondering if I need to replace the clutch rings. I have not checked the condition of them yet but plan to the next time I crack the primary case open. I am wondering if maybe they are warped or warn out enough to cause a problem.
Chris
Chris
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 751
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From: 500 miles south from Artic Circle
RE: fixed tach and ignition
ORIGINAL: cswanson
I'm having the same problem with not being able to find neutral when my bike (71 XLCH) is running. I have adjusted the clutch as per the instructions in my service manual and checked the pressure plate as well.
I'm having the same problem with not being able to find neutral when my bike (71 XLCH) is running. I have adjusted the clutch as per the instructions in my service manual and checked the pressure plate as well.
ORIGINAL: cswanson
I am wondering if I need to replace the clutch rings. I have not checked the condition of them yet but plan to the next time I crack the primary case open. I am wondering if maybe they are warped or warn out enough to cause a problem.
Chris
I am wondering if I need to replace the clutch rings. I have not checked the condition of them yet but plan to the next time I crack the primary case open. I am wondering if maybe they are warped or warn out enough to cause a problem.
Chris
Check also if tip of hte clutch adjusting screw is worn = not cylinder shape.
-sepixlh-
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: fixed tach and ignition
Chris....
The clutch on a 1971 is a pretty good one. It runs wet (in oil) and does not get much wear to it in my experience. My clutch has run just fine for the past 36 years! That's older than a lot of people on this forum.
I do not know if you have had your clutch apart yet. This takes a special spring compressor to remove the plates. This tool can easily be made at home.
Assuming you are not familar with how the clutch works:
The pressure plate is the last plate back next to the clutch drum.
The most outer plate is called the outer drive plate and just to the outside of that is the releasing disc. The release disc has 12 nuts on it. (6) hold the 3 retainers (if yours is an early 1971) or the retainers number 6 if you have a late 1971.
The other 6 nuts adjust the alignment of the release disc. This needs to run true, or else it will wobble and create a drag on the clutch.
In between the pressure plate and the outer drive plate there are 8 steel plates and 8 fiber plates, along with 2 very strong coil springs. These springs are what you have to compress to get the clutch apart.
The only thing inside this clutch area that could cause the clutch to drag is if you overheated the clutch and warped the steel plates. I am very doubtful that happened. But if it did, then you need a new set of plates to replace the entire clutch. If a steel plate wobbles when you lay it on a piece of glass, then it is done for.
If you need any assistance with taking your clutch apart just let me know and I can walk you through it, along with the business about making the springer compressor........pg
The clutch on a 1971 is a pretty good one. It runs wet (in oil) and does not get much wear to it in my experience. My clutch has run just fine for the past 36 years! That's older than a lot of people on this forum.
I do not know if you have had your clutch apart yet. This takes a special spring compressor to remove the plates. This tool can easily be made at home.
Assuming you are not familar with how the clutch works:
The pressure plate is the last plate back next to the clutch drum.
The most outer plate is called the outer drive plate and just to the outside of that is the releasing disc. The release disc has 12 nuts on it. (6) hold the 3 retainers (if yours is an early 1971) or the retainers number 6 if you have a late 1971.
The other 6 nuts adjust the alignment of the release disc. This needs to run true, or else it will wobble and create a drag on the clutch.
In between the pressure plate and the outer drive plate there are 8 steel plates and 8 fiber plates, along with 2 very strong coil springs. These springs are what you have to compress to get the clutch apart.
The only thing inside this clutch area that could cause the clutch to drag is if you overheated the clutch and warped the steel plates. I am very doubtful that happened. But if it did, then you need a new set of plates to replace the entire clutch. If a steel plate wobbles when you lay it on a piece of glass, then it is done for.
If you need any assistance with taking your clutch apart just let me know and I can walk you through it, along with the business about making the springer compressor........pg
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 30
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From:
RE: fixed tach and ignition
I have not had my clutch apart yet. The only thing I have done is check the nuts on the release disc. I was surprised to find that there were no retainers on my clutch, but rather only the 6 release disk nuts (nylon lock nuts) as my bike is an early '71 (Man. Date 12/70). What is the proper way to adjust the release disc nuts? The clutch adjusting screw appears to be in good condition.
In the bucket of parts I received from the previous owner I have what appears to be a clutch spring release tool. I have done some work on other motorcycle clutches before, but nothing much more than adjusting or replacing clutch rings so I am aware of the energy stored in the clutch springs.
I had read about possible warped steel plates so I thought that my next step would be to disassemble the clutch and see what I have. If someone thinks that I should check some other things first please feel free to steer me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Chris
In the bucket of parts I received from the previous owner I have what appears to be a clutch spring release tool. I have done some work on other motorcycle clutches before, but nothing much more than adjusting or replacing clutch rings so I am aware of the energy stored in the clutch springs.
I had read about possible warped steel plates so I thought that my next step would be to disassemble the clutch and see what I have. If someone thinks that I should check some other things first please feel free to steer me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Chris
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: fixed tach and ignition
Chris.....
Here are depictions of the 2 tools you will need to remove the clutch. Does your included clutch tool look like this? If so, then you do indeed have the tool. You will also need the one at the top right side of the page.
These both can be made in your shop. If you have to buy both tools they are going to total a steep price.....but you need them to do clutch work. I urge you to make your own, You can buy a set of clutch plates for what these will cost you.
I am going to start another thread regarding the adjustment (and comments to you about) of the clutch...............pg
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/E564B5CE0ADC463FA2C0B737B3E554D6.jpg[/IMG]
Here are depictions of the 2 tools you will need to remove the clutch. Does your included clutch tool look like this? If so, then you do indeed have the tool. You will also need the one at the top right side of the page.
These both can be made in your shop. If you have to buy both tools they are going to total a steep price.....but you need them to do clutch work. I urge you to make your own, You can buy a set of clutch plates for what these will cost you.
I am going to start another thread regarding the adjustment (and comments to you about) of the clutch...............pg
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/E564B5CE0ADC463FA2C0B737B3E554D6.jpg[/IMG]
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