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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #21  
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Default RE: starting trouble

I took a bit of a short cut. You only have to compress the clutch an 1/8" or so. Just lay your steel next to case and mark the holes.
I use a socket to put the pressure on the center of the plate. The all thread is 1/4" x 20.

2nd photo is not mine. http://www.ironheadcycle.com/pages/howto6.htm

Good luck.








[IMG]local://upfiles/42520/09FB06532BDD4250A5DB60BDA0C2DD21.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/42520/6616C102306045E1830FC3700FBCC2B0.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:56 PM
  #22  
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Default RE: starting trouble

There you go Wizardy68......Hog4U just solved your problem. Nice job Hog4U.....no welding needed. Wizard can make one too.........pg
 
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #23  
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Default Thank you Sir...Pat*

*
 
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 08:38 AM
  #24  
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Default RE: Thank you Sir...Pat*

ok im all over that!!!! simple . now the thing of it is are u using the 1/4 20 and nut to drine the socket into the clutch? and what size is the socket and is it welded to the steel? thanks for all the help guys. seems very easy i hope. so if im backing out the clutch 1/8 of an inch it should pop out? thanks allen
 
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 09:00 AM
  #25  
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Default RE: Thank you Sir...Pat*

The springs are compressed by turning in the 1/4 inch nuts using the socket in the center. The socket presses against the center of the clutch outer plate. Beneath this plate are the springs (two of them, one inside the other). You compress the plate in 1/8 inch so then you are able to remove the (6) nuts on the clutch hub studs.
After the nuts are removed, carefully back off each of the 1/4-20 nuts as evenly as you can. As you progress, the clutch springs become more relaxed.
If the socket were to slip at the beginning, there is considerable spring force present. The socket does not need to be welded on, but if it were me I would drill a hole in the angle piece and insert a bolt (with a 1/2 inch square head) into this hole and put a nut on the outside facing you. This hole should be centered over the clutch center. Then the 1/2 inch drive socket could locate on the bolt head you just inserted. Kinda belt and suspenders perhaps, but then you have it covered..........pg
 
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 09:45 PM
  #26  
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Default RE: Thank you Sir...Pat*

ok i have part of the clutch removed but i need to gey a socket from my work tool box to finish. but now i think i screwd up. should i have taken the bolt off the front sproket 1st? which way does it turn to get it off? with movement of both the kick does move but is still bound up a little. tool worked great also.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2007 | 01:13 AM
  #27  
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From: Houston Texas
Default RE: Thank you Sir...Pat*

No you have not screwed up, but you will have to remove the engine sprocket nut. The nut comes off in the regular direction (counterclockwise to remove).
You will need something to lock the engine from turing. I just cut up a piece of Delrin (plastic) and insert it between the chain and engine sprocket. As you unscrew the nut everything gets locked up as the chain and sprocket teeth eat into the plastic...........pg


[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/581391864D2E46AB8E7208EF71D1DCE3.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old Sep 21, 2007 | 11:28 AM
  #28  
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Default RE: starting trouble.clutch comp tool.

I use a foot long 2x4 piece of lumber turned edge ways to compress a clutch.Drill you some 3/8 holes 10 1/8 inches apart.Get you 2 12 inch 1/4 -20 threaded rods,2-1/2 inch flat washers and 2 nuts.Run the threaded rods through the 2 holes in the 2-4 put the washers on and run the nuts up and it will perfectly compress the clutch.Total cost of about 4-5 bucks..
 
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 08:04 AM
  #29  
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Default RE: starting trouble.clutch comp tool.

this is where im at. have everything off the clutch. but front sproket im having trouble with. have the main nut off. see photos. is there anything else holding it? cant tell by the manual
 
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 08:06 AM
  #30  
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Default RE: starting trouble.clutch comp tool.

pic 2 and 3
 
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