i dont know how to tell if its correct....i dont know what you mean by the clutch ramp.

Here is an illustration showing the clutch ramp (item 8). This is for a 1974 and earlier, but most likely applies for a 1981 as well. Someone tell me if I am wrong about that
This requires the proper adjustment be made using the screw (item 4) and the coil adjusting sleeve (item 14).
If you do not not know how to make the adjustment let me know and I will send instruction......pg


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ohhhhh yeah i did that.i adjusted it out previously but i kept having issues so i just replaced it...well see.my only problem now is that its really "grabby".....when you clutch it it will still want to walk on you....to the point of being dangerous in the wrong place.since my kill switch is still down by the chain it makes it a little interesting.i suppose i will just keep screwing the adjustment in(1/8 th turns)&nbsp\\;until that is corrected making sure there is no slippage? sounds good to you?

 

Do the following and you will only have to do it once:
Loosen the locknut (12) and turn in the adjuster (14) until there is a large amount of play at the lever.
Loosen the locknut (2) and turn in the screw (4) inward until it gets tighter. Continue to turn about 2 more turns.
Screw the adjuster (14) out until all play at the lever is zero. No load nor tension on the cable.
Tighten the locknut (12). Cable adjustment is now complete.

Now go back to the screw (4). Unscrew until free movement is felt. Stop. Turn back in until resistance is felt. Stop. Back screw out ¼ to ½ turn. Stop. Tighten locknut (2) while not allowing screw (4) to turn.
This completes the proper adjustment of the clutch release ramp. If the clutch slips or drags after making this adjustment, then you will have to go back into the clutch and adjust the spring tension on the clutch, or the release mechanism itself needs to be replaced.

 

thats the way i did it.the problem i have is that it does not clutch in eneough to mesh into gear.from a previous post you told me that it will never feel the same as a newer jap bike or something to that effect.which made me feel alot better but i cant bring myself to cram it into gear and when i do the bike will go ...to the point of not being able to hold it back.
&nbsp\\; i dont know how/didnt see any other adjustments inside the casing.-i have an aftermarket kickstand which makes it lean lower...it will allow me to look straight on at the primary and put it on.i had to sit on the bike kick the kickstand up and put it on basically upside down.it was alot of fun.am not looking forward to doing that anytime soon although it would be alot easier now.
&nbsp\\;

 

There is no further adjustment possible. Sportsters clunk into gear. Sometimes they take off down the driveway when the engine/oil is cold. After they warm up, they only clunk when you put it into first but do not want to run down the driveway.
&nbsp\\;I do not know how else to say it. Sportsters clunk. Newer Evo Sportsters do not clunk. They shift just as quietly as a Twin Cam 88 (actually those clunk too).
Any ironhead from a 1957 model yp through the last ironhead are going to clunk. It is not until you move into the Evo type engine that the shifting gets better.........pg

 

yeah i rememeber you telling me that before which i was glad to hear but its more than just a little clunk.when i adjust the the clutch as you said(same as book) when you put it into gear its more of a BAM! ...i have to tighten it in a touch more to get to the clunk part.thats ok i dont mind it always clunking since you told me it was normal but i will have to tighten it in a little more to keep it from moving.as it is now i could not hold it at a stop sign and it is i beleive 1/4 past freeplay.(i had to work on a car and leave the bike for a few days so i cant remember for sure)
what i am trying to say is i will have to slowly(1/8th turns)&nbsp\\;adjust it in to find a safe place.(the furthest point away from slipping i can get and still hold it in one place)i am not trying to get rid of the clunk only make it not pull as hard clutched in.i dont know what else to do but that and maybe readjust it after a few miles have been put on it.

 

What you are talking about here (bike creeps forward at a stop sign) is called clutch drag.
You have adjusted the clutch ramp correctly, so the only possibility left is that the 6 nuts on the face of the clutch are run in unevenly. This would cause the outside steel plate (called outside releasing disc) to wobble and cause the clutch to drag.
Now that would be something to check except for the fact that after 1974 HD used 6 sleeves around the studs. These sleeves act as spacers, so instead of having to align the outer plate by adjusting the 6 nuts on the studs (like in the old days) with the sleeves you simply tighten down each nut tight. The sleeves are the same length so the plate cannot wobble and cause drag.
If someone has taken these 6 sleeves out of the clutch, then this could be the problem.
That is the only thing I can think of that could cause the plate to wobble and drag........pg

 

i had the spacers and i tightened&nbsp\\;the plate&nbsp\\;up in sequence(criss cross) and torque it to spec with new lock nuts.-i just &nbsp\\;adjusted the clutch in a little more than spec and it seems to be at an acceptable place.-does the release disc ever warp????

 

I believe I can safely say the clutch release disc never warps. I have not seen that happen.....ever.
Good that you have the spacers. Aligning the plate in the old days before the spacers could be a real pain. I hope your clutch is acceptable to you and gives you no more trouble.......pg