'72 project jam
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Cruiser
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'72 project jam
im new here and within a month a bought a 72 basket case. thought it was 50-60% complete. just got my factory manual and between that and the clymer book, this machine is not that complete. trany looks complete. heads have new gaskets. clutch cable has to be put in. need new pushrods. part of the covers are missing. generator seems new but not installed. not electric start but was told it is set up for it, so no starter. front break is assembled rear only 1/2. parts missing from regulator. looks as if the carb is all there but doesn't seem to line up. waiting on a new complete bolt kit. some parts i have an idea where they go by going through both books. as far as the generator and starter goes i have no idea where in the world they go.this is my 1st attempt at rebuilding and working on a motorcycle. never owned 1 till this year. is there anyway i could get some sort of photos that have a layout on where and what goes where. see the hting of it is someone was suppose to come over and go through my parts to see what i need. well its been weeks and still waiting. i wanna get parts orderd and start working on this thing so when the weather does stay nice i can go out and ride and enjoy myself. all help will be greatful. thank you...lanky
if picts are helpfull i can try to get some posted
if picts are helpfull i can try to get some posted
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: '72 project jam
Are we having fun yet? 
See if you can come up with a parts manual for the bike. Many good pics, showing what goes where, and how it gets there. The Jireh catalog usually has some pretty good parts breakdowns, so you might get one of their catalogs. http://www.jirehcycles.com/
Missing regulator parts? What kind of regulator - Bosch (kickstart only) or Delco (electric start)? I'd highly recommend canning whatever regulator you have and getting an Accel soild state one.
Generator goes at the front of the engine. Starter bolts up to the backside of the hump on the rear of the primary.
Your brakes are the pits. They are adequate. Find an anchor, stow it in a saddlebag.
What is the carb? Stock was a Bendix. What doesn't line up? I know a trick to line up the manifold to the head spigots. It's written up for Shovels, but the Sporty is pretty much the same in the manifold area
If you ever remove the intake manifold of a Shovel motor it’s a good idea to check how it aligns with the spigots on the heads. If it doesn’t align well, you’ll probably end up with a leak sooner or later. The best method is to loosen the heads and adjust their position to match the manifold. Once the head bolts are loosened, you’ll notice you can actually rotate the heads a bit.
One method is to put your manifold in place between the spigots and then start tightening the head bolts. Look at the gaps between the head spigots and the manifold to see if it's aligned correctly. Adjust the heads as needed.
Another method is to install the manifold without the o-rings. Install the clamps and tighten them, and the loose heads will align themselves to the manifold. Now tighten the head bolts in the standard crisscross pattern to 15 or 20 ft. lbs. Remove the manifold and finish tightening the head bolts to the proper torque specs.
You can make a leak tester to check your work by fabbing some type of cover for the front of the manifold. A piece of metal with holes drilled to match the holes of your manifold, and another hole for some method to connect an air line, works fine. To test your manifold-to-head connections pump about 5 psi into your contraption. Yeah, you gotta make sure both your intake valves are closed! Use some leak detector or make some with soapy water. Slosh it on the head-to-manifold joints and watch for bubbles.
When you are installing those dang o-rings, roll ‘em up onto the head spigots, but make sure they don’t twist when you slide them into the gap. Then before you put the clamps on, take a wrap or two with some electrical tape around the o-ring. Use some good tape, not the el-cheapo crap from the bargain bin. I like either Scotch 33 or Scotch 88. 33 is thinner and more flexible.
Some folks don’t like the tape routine. It does goo things up as the tape gets warm. And that is one reason it helps seal things. The next time you pull the manifold off, it easily cleans up with some good ol’ gasoline.
You folks with later model Shovels don’t have to mess with the o-rings; you’ve got those nice wide sissy bands. But things’ll still last longer if’n you align the heads and intake manifold.
See if you can come up with a parts manual for the bike. Many good pics, showing what goes where, and how it gets there. The Jireh catalog usually has some pretty good parts breakdowns, so you might get one of their catalogs. http://www.jirehcycles.com/
Missing regulator parts? What kind of regulator - Bosch (kickstart only) or Delco (electric start)? I'd highly recommend canning whatever regulator you have and getting an Accel soild state one.
Generator goes at the front of the engine. Starter bolts up to the backside of the hump on the rear of the primary.
Your brakes are the pits. They are adequate. Find an anchor, stow it in a saddlebag.
What is the carb? Stock was a Bendix. What doesn't line up? I know a trick to line up the manifold to the head spigots. It's written up for Shovels, but the Sporty is pretty much the same in the manifold area
If you ever remove the intake manifold of a Shovel motor it’s a good idea to check how it aligns with the spigots on the heads. If it doesn’t align well, you’ll probably end up with a leak sooner or later. The best method is to loosen the heads and adjust their position to match the manifold. Once the head bolts are loosened, you’ll notice you can actually rotate the heads a bit.
One method is to put your manifold in place between the spigots and then start tightening the head bolts. Look at the gaps between the head spigots and the manifold to see if it's aligned correctly. Adjust the heads as needed.
Another method is to install the manifold without the o-rings. Install the clamps and tighten them, and the loose heads will align themselves to the manifold. Now tighten the head bolts in the standard crisscross pattern to 15 or 20 ft. lbs. Remove the manifold and finish tightening the head bolts to the proper torque specs.
You can make a leak tester to check your work by fabbing some type of cover for the front of the manifold. A piece of metal with holes drilled to match the holes of your manifold, and another hole for some method to connect an air line, works fine. To test your manifold-to-head connections pump about 5 psi into your contraption. Yeah, you gotta make sure both your intake valves are closed! Use some leak detector or make some with soapy water. Slosh it on the head-to-manifold joints and watch for bubbles.
When you are installing those dang o-rings, roll ‘em up onto the head spigots, but make sure they don’t twist when you slide them into the gap. Then before you put the clamps on, take a wrap or two with some electrical tape around the o-ring. Use some good tape, not the el-cheapo crap from the bargain bin. I like either Scotch 33 or Scotch 88. 33 is thinner and more flexible.
Some folks don’t like the tape routine. It does goo things up as the tape gets warm. And that is one reason it helps seal things. The next time you pull the manifold off, it easily cleans up with some good ol’ gasoline.
You folks with later model Shovels don’t have to mess with the o-rings; you’ve got those nice wide sissy bands. But things’ll still last longer if’n you align the heads and intake manifold.
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Cruiser
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RE: '72 project jam
well the regulator i cant find the numbers. the white writting is almost all gone.my circuit breaker is the one missing alot of parts. this bike is set up for a kickstart but i was also told it was set up also for electric start. yes the carb is a bendix. the intake manifold doesnt line up to the motor. kinda off. i do have a jireh catalog along with the v-twin, j&p cycles, clymer service repair, and the service manual for xl/xlh/xlch/xlt-1000 1970-1978. there was something else but ill have to pull it out and look to see what it was. i dont wanna give you the wrong info. thanks lanky
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Cruiser
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RE: '72 project jam
i added photos. its in an album title lanky. couple describtions on the photos. my photos look good but under the album so so. if need be i can email them to you if needed. let me know
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: '72 project jam
I can see the electric starter ring gear visible in one of your pics. There's a good pic of all the miscellaneous parts needed for the starter assembly in the service manual. In my book, item 16, pinion shaft nut, is a left hand thread. If a buncha these parts are missing, it'll be somewhat expensive to gather 'em all up.
I'm at a loss about the manifold not lining up. It could be the wrong one, or you could have stroker cylinders.
I'm at a loss about the manifold not lining up. It could be the wrong one, or you could have stroker cylinders.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
Likes: 1,472
From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: '72 project jam
Look in your manual for the pic of the starter drive parts. It shows a good breakdown of all of them.
A stroker motor will usually either have stroker plates underneath the cylinders, or taller cylinders. Plates are easy to see. Taller cylinders will need to be measured and compared to stockers, if you have access to another bike with known stock cylinders. Or you could actually measure the stroke, which is more easily done with the heads off. What doesn't line up about the manifold? Do you have a pic with the manifold sorta where it's s'posed to go?
A stroker motor will usually either have stroker plates underneath the cylinders, or taller cylinders. Plates are easy to see. Taller cylinders will need to be measured and compared to stockers, if you have access to another bike with known stock cylinders. Or you could actually measure the stroke, which is more easily done with the heads off. What doesn't line up about the manifold? Do you have a pic with the manifold sorta where it's s'posed to go?
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Cruiser
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RE: '72 project jam
i just thought the starter just sat in that ring. ill be able to tell more whats inside cuz i have to hook up the clutch cable. in my folder its pic 1 if you click on it it says that the manifold dont line up. as far as the starter goes i dont have all them parts at all
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