I'm kinda keen on those old 'ham can' air cleaners HD put on ironheads -- the sort that buyers couldn't wait to get rid of.

I'm gonna keep the Keihin carburetor that came on my 1980 XLS and as I fart around on eBay occasionally see an air filter assy cheap, but haven't sprung for one of 'em for fear it woudn't fit.

So: are the intake flanges of the several carburetors HD used on XL's over the years standardized insofar as fitment of 'ham cans' goes?

Asked a different way, if I buy one of 'em that didn't come from a 1980, will it fit?

Thanks in advance for all help!

 

Attached is a pic of one from eBay on my 1980. Goes right on no problems. Note tho the home made carb support bracket - you can see part of it attached at the front intake lifter block bolt.

The carbs were set up way to lean at the factory to satisfy the emissions police. Here are a few suggestions:

The Keihin carb will work much better if you install the Andrews accelerator pump kit. This doubles the amount of fuel that is injected when you twist the throttle. Engine runs much better, especially lower speed acceleration.

The stock main jet for 1980 was 160. 165 works better, 170 may work better yet. I tried 180 and the engine bogged down from too much fuel when i tried to accelerate. With a 175 it ran well but the back end was covered in soot from being too rich after a long ride. So i am sticking with the 170.

The carb works best with the pilot screw turned out between 1/4 and 1,1/4 turns. The stock slow jet was a 68. Check your pilot screw. If it is open more than 1,1/4 turns you should go up a size or two [skip 72 and go with what comes next, 75 or whatever] on the slow jet.

There is a lot of fooliong around with carb changes. Make sure the bike is running well before you make changes. This is a way to make the bike run better - it is not for fixing problems. And then make them one at a time. This is very important.

 

Thanks for the advice, Mick. BTW, that's the finest 'ham can' A/C I've seen. I especially like the GM style fake grill!

My '80 is scattered all over the country: all fasteners to be cadmium plated in Salt Lake City, frame and other large hunks to the powdercoaters in Georgia, assorted chrome stuff to the chrome guys in Lincoln, NE, jugs/heads off to the ceramic coating guys who I use in Georgia, and livery off to my favorite painter. Consequently, the enigne is months away from running.

But wait, there's more:

I'm basking in the glory of owning two ironheads, the one in my siganture line that I built about ten years ago (a '71 RH shifting XLH) and the '80 XLS.

After removing the pilot screw plug, then the needle, along with thoroughly disassembling the rest, I dunked the carb in cleaner, left it in for about two weeks (the XLS has not run for 22 years) and assembled it today. Partly out of curiosity and partly as a strategy, I plucked the S&S shorty off my old XLH, made an intake gasket, and installed the Keihin on the old Chopper.

I'm thoroughly happy with how it runs. I couldn't really wring it out 'cause a thunderstorm arrived just as I was getting down to short strokes. But your excellent advice is appreciated. It seemed to respond nicely to sharp increases in throttle, but I'll keep that accel pump suggestion in mind. I'll probably dyno it eventually and I'll keep your jet suggestions handy.

In any case, I'm happy because I thought the Keihin might be beyond repair, but it seems to be totally on line.

Thanks again!

Harold
Tallahassee, FL


PS: I took a picture of the XLS last week. Here it is:

 

I have a LP album from the 60s - King Crimson, In The Court Of The Crimson King. Cover looks like your avatar, eh.

 

My dad, with the aid of a Champion outboard motor, taught me to swear; King Crimson, aside from loaning me an avatar, taught me how to smoke dope.

Never inhaled, mind you.

 

The Keihin carb intake flanges are the same up thru 1987. I mounted an "Evo" Screamin' Eagle air cleaner kit (that was made for the '86-'87 Evo) on my '83 Ironhead with no mods other than a different support bracket.

 

That's EXACTLY what I want. Very spiffy installation!

 

Airbox backplate is "easy" to modify to adapt any carb... Notice that new sportsters airbox backplate is made of plastic.



Just remove center section of box and replace it plate that fits to your carb. Doing a like I did you can move airbox closer to fueltank so it doesn't stick into your knee.