Other than gaskets, O-rings, and adjustments, what should I be looking to do or have done on a '77 xl. I'm told by family and friends who follow me to dinner or wherever that while I'm riding, the bike smokes a bit, especially when I let off the gas to shift gears. I know that it's been about 50 to 75,000 miles since it last received a top end job.

 

You will be needing to reface the valve seats, reface (or replace if badly worn) the valves, have the valve guides checked for excessive play and replace those guides if there is excessive wear. You may also be wise to pull the cylinders and check for excessive wear. If the cylinders are egg shaped or you find scuffed pistons you will be looking at a rebore and new pistons. Measure the very top of each cylinder, just below the ring groove, with an inside micrometer and measure the very bottom (where there is no wear) and see what the difference is. This all adds up to a major expense if the wear is excessive. In otherwords, sometimes living with a little smoke is not so bad. Good luck on your decision.......piniongear

 

Thanks for the heads up. At what point does this job become manditory before total meltdown? Progressively more smoke or other symptems to watch out for?

 

It all comes down to the amount of wear that the engine has on it. That can only be discovered by pulling it apart and doing the inspection and measurements. Usually it is best to leave well enough alone. I ran mine many, many miles before I ever tore it down on the first rebuild.
It was worn out at that time, but it was still running nice, and of course burning some oil and smoked a bit. I had no reason to do anything, but I decided with the milage I had it must need work. Yes, it was worn but I could have run another (?) miles, who knows?
The second rebuild was not just the top end, but the entire machine. After sitting inside my saltwater boatshed for 13 years without being be ridden, it needed the full treatment to restore it. It still had the original green paint and the horrible 8 inch over fork tubes the the original owner had installed in his effort to 'chop' the bike. If you are interested you can see some what this involved at http://area51.tzo.com/bperry/gallery
The best advice I can offer is this: As long as it starts easily, be happy and ride. The compression on my XLCH had sank to such a low level that I believe I could have just sat there and concentrated hard enough and cranked it by thought alone.
The engine internal parts had worn in to the point that one smooth kick and it came to life. No oil leaks, except around the push rod tubes and tach drive. I knew the power was reduced, but it ran still like that Energizer bunny.
After the 2nd rebuild everything is the same, except it now has some power. I did all of the work myself, but found myself $5K poorer at the conclusion of the rebuild.
So, in the end, it is up to you. If it currently continues to run and start easy, my advice is to ride it and enjoy the bike until something mechanical forces you to take action. I would not worry about how many miles you have on it. Just keep the oil changed regularly. That will be the best service you can provide for your Sporty. Hope this helps..............piniongear

 

Yep. It's a big help. It confirms what I suspected and hoped and will allow me to throw some money at some cosmetic changes first. I just went through a temp. move so as soon as I find my camera I'll snap a shot to upload to the site. By the way, I tried the link and it sent me to a "Forbidden" notice page - I'm forbidden to access the server. ???

Thanks for your time and advice.

Rich

 

Regarding that link Rich, I think what may be the problem is that the forem here does not 'host' where the link sends you, thus the 'forbidden' message.
It is a bit of a job to type out, but try to go to it by typing out the http://area51.tzo.com/bperry/gallery rather than clicking on this link. You should be sucessful in getting there...............Blake

ps I clicked on the link and I got the same forbidden message myself, so try the direct typing.

 

Tried the typing trick and got a 404. When I tried the home page it said the site is being re-designed so I'll have to check back at a later date.

Found the camera. The pict is from a couple weeks ago at the VA Beach Bike Rally.

[IMG]local://upfiles/5737/07B6B9287FB94B4896C81B24E05A2F21.jpg[/IMG]

 

Nice looking Sportster Rich. It appears that you have a side mount oil tank which would indicate an electric starter?
I have to apologize to you about the site address that I listed before. No wonder that you could not access it. I had typed in an incorrect address. Duh! The (complete) and correct one is http://area51.tzo.com/bperry/gallery to see photos of my rebuild and other garbage.........piniongear

 

Correct! Electric start. Here's a better pict. You raise 2 issues with that observation. 1: I've thought about adding a kick or going kick only. Comments? 2: I'd like to hide the batt. a bit more from the left side and achive more of a symetrical look which means something like a horseshoe style oil tank but would prefere a cylinder style. I have already got a D.S. sealed batt. Any ideas on what's available and what, if any, frame modification would be nessessary?

Thanx,
Rich

[IMG]local://upfiles/5737/366EDB1FE24941EB96FF0B9EB5ADE7CF.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hi Rich,
I prefer a kick start only myself, but to each their own on that. If you remove the electric starter you will not need such a large battery, as you now have. There is a plate that will bolt on to the backside of the primary to seal where the starter now resides, or you could make one up yourself fairly easy. Then you could use a smaller battery that would be located on the left hand side of the bike. This allows you to use a center mount oil tank. A horseshoe shaped oil tank will not really be possible to use because that would require space needed for the left hand battery mount. A square box shape (like I have on mine) or perhaps an aftermarket round tank will work.
Now, as to the kickstart lever installation: Yours is a 1977, so it must have the left hand shift lever. I see from your photo that where there is a place that the k/s shaft goes through the transmission sprocket cover, there appears that this hole is plugged. It should be easy to remove the plug and install the bronze bushing for the k/s shaft. HOWEVER, you need to look at your frame downtubes that are right behind the plugged shaft hole to see if there is a hole through both tubes to route the k/s shaft to the primary case backside. There also needs to be a hole (it would also be plugged) in the primary backside to route the shaft through into the clutch area. If these holes exist, it will be simple to get the shaft, bushings and gear that you will require to convert it over.
If the holes are not there, don't think about doing a conversion because it will not be possible.
I have no experience beyond 1974 regarding the details of frames and other changes made in 1975 on that were made due to meeting Fed rules regarding moving the shifter to the leftside etc.
Harley has always been slow to change anything unless they had to, so there is a chance they just plugged the case hole and left the frame alone with yours having frame holes where earlier models had a kickstart. You will have to look and then you will have your answer.
IMO, it does clean up the lines of the Sportster to move the oil tank to a center mount position and get rid of the starter and large battery.........piniongear