So a few months ago I said to myself "Self, let's see if we can't stop with the "welcome-mat-under-the-bike" routine after a nice ride." Self answered back and said "Looks like most of the oil is comming out arround the gear case gasket and the oil pump gasket." "OK" said I, and went to pullin' **** apart and back together with a good cleaning and new gaskets.

Now, up untill the point that I got this beauty I have only owned and worked on 2 other bikes, an '82 450C (Honda) and an '82 750 Magna (also Honda).

I can see that you know where this is going.

I did pay attention to where the points were located but only to the extent of the mark that the washer had made. However, the timing plate was removed without even realizing what it was for or where it was set.

The bike ran, allthough roughly. When I figured out what I did, I tried to set the timing. I had to guess because I could never find the timing mark with the strobe but it was much improved. The lack of timing mark got the better of me though and set out to set the point gap thinking that if that is off then it will reflect in the timing issue. Again an improvement, but now I can't confirm my theory because the engine idles so low that it will cut off within about 5-7 seconds if I don't use the throttle to rev the rpm up.

I have an S&S Super E. There is a screw on the top side that is both knurled and slotted and has a spring on the underside for tension. I have to assume that this is an idle adjust screw. Question; turning this clockwise should increase or decrease rpm? I ask because I got no change at all for up to 3/4 turn in either dirrection. Took the cover off and found the sleeve needs to be replaced so I tried again without the cleaner on the carb; no difference.

I obviously have several issues that are compounding on one another and I have no idea where to begin or if I'm overlooking something.

Thanx,
Pyro

 

I reckon the first question is, "Have you static timed it according to the service manual?"

But maybe it oughtta be, "Do you have a service manual?"

Here's a rough way to get the timing close: Center the timing plate fastening screws in the adjustment slots. Then set the point gap. That will get you close enough to easily start the beastie, and time it with a light through the oil-spewing hole!

I gots no experience with the "E" carb, but S&S has good instructions for their stuff, and it is available free online.

 

pyro.....Let's back up to before you attacked the oil leak problem. Did the bike idle smoothly and run well? If it did, then most of your problems lie with removing the points back plate and getting it retimed correctly.

1) The points cam has two lobes (one for each cylinder) Set one cam lobe at the high pt of the cam and gap the contact points to .018.
2) Rotate the engine until that other lobe reaches it's high pt. Check the contact points gap again. It should be within +/- .004 of the other lobe setting.
3) Next, set the base plate in the middle of the slots and tighten down. The bike should start easy. If it will not idle, set the idle speed to a higher rpm (see carb comment below)
4) Now you need the timing light and the plastic plug that goes into the hole on the left side. You sound like you know the drill with the light, and yes sometimes the mark is difficult to see. Just get the vertical slash mark to show up in that hole when the light goes on with the engine running at 2000 rpm and the timing light pickup lead on the front spark plug wire. You will be close enough. The rear cylinder timing marks are two dots, superimposed.

Now, to the carb. I have not handled an S&S and so I no nothing about them, but many other people on this forum know them well, so maybe they can post in.
You probably have two, but that could be as many as three screws with a spring under them. One is for idle. One is for the low speed jet adjustment. A third would be for the high speed jet adjustment, although I suspect this is a fixed jet rather than an adjustable jet, and therfore there will only be two screws.

1) The idle adjustment screw is going to be close to the slide or butterfly (again I am not familar with this carb) Find it first and adjust the idle speed.This screw simply raises the slide or opens the butterfly to advance throttle opening. Simple as that.
2) Next look for the low speed screw. This adjusts the air/fuel ratio at idle up to perhaps 1/4 throttle. Just turn this screw in until the idle runs rough. STOP AT THAT POINT. Turn the screw back out and the idle rpm should increase. Keep turning until the engine starts to falter and run rough. STOP. Now, just turn it back in 1/8 turn and you should find the bike running smooth and you may have to go back and adjust the idle speed one last time.
3) The main jet will be unaffected if it is a fixed jet. You should be good to roll.

 

piniongear,

Yep, the bike ran smooth before I took it apart so that is what lead me to the timing and points. The carb is just an afterthought.

For a bit of clearification on the cam, I sketched a cross-section (since the Clymer manual is so good on details) and labled what I would consider "high points" on the cam lobe as A,C,E,G. If I understand you correctly, than, with the "fiber cam follower" positioned at points C and G, they need to be within .004 of each other?

2000 rpm. This presents another problem. I have the tach in a box of parts that came with the bike so I got nothing to read the rpm with right now and since the manual accually says "run at idle" I did not worry about it. I figure I can hook it up temperarally but that's where I get de-railed. I have a plug in the gear case where a mechanical tach drive would go but the one I have is electric. In looking at the wiring diagrams in the back, an electric tach is not used untill '81. So where would I run the "IGN+" and "TRIG" leads to?



pococj,

"static timed" ? Havent seen that term anywhere in the Clymer manual and it seems there is alot more info I'm missing out on other than just exploded views. I'll have to see if I can find one on ebay.


Thanx everyone,
pyro

[IMG]local://upfiles/5737/5098CA7159DC4F159DE8581470F3F9B6.jpg[/IMG]

 

pyro....... From your sketch it should be 'A'(the most prominent lobe) as the one you want.
Let's do it this way: The lobes will open the points. So rotate the engine until the points open up. Rock the engine forward/backward to get on the high pt of this cam. Set the gap to .018............... Yes, the fiber follower will ride up on the cam.
Rotate the engine around and the points will open again('E'). Check this gap and compare. Is it within +/- .004?

The bike uses a mechanical tach as you so state. Do not mess with trying to hook up or use an electric tachometer.
The engine needs to run at 2000 rpm so that centrifugal force will move the flyweights out to automatically advance the timing. (If the book says all you require is idle speed to time the engine, then....well, the book is incorrect.)
A very fast idle results in approx. 1200 rpms. Just crack the throttle a bit more and hold it there. All you're trying to do is get the flyweights to swing out. BTY: The flyweight assembly is behind the points base plate, and the cam is part of this assembly.
Now set the ignition timing while maintaining this steady rpm.

 

All is smooth again and I raise a Bud to all those who helped and cheered me on from the sidelines.

It turns out that I had it right the first time I timed it - I just didn't see the mark. Pointing the timing light away from the plug reduced the glare from the plastic enough to see through the oil to find it this time. Setting the gap on the points to the wrong side of the cam didn't help my cause either.

Thanx again and have a fun 4th,
pyro