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ironhead belt drive conversion?

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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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Default ironhead belt drive conversion?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARLE...item4a9b8c7905

Came across this while hunting for brake parts. I'm thinking it shouldn't be that hard as far as the drive part goes, I'm just wondering how/if i could retrofit the rear brake drum over it. Thoughts?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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that is a primary drive set up not the rear drive, i dont know much about this set up
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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I thought the belt looked a little short. Well, learned something new today.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Anyone have thoughts on belt primary drive versus chain?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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I've seen them come in the shop One was a 68 the other was 70's vintage I know they claim the belts are ok in an oil bath but I just don't know What I do know is I'd rather have a prim belt blow apart on a sporty than a chain ! What a mess on the left case when this happens
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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the chain does make a mess of the case wen it goes,from what i have seen it is usually comes from the adj. bolts comming loose but i stay on maintance i check my primary tension whenever i do a oil change
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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I thought that the only real problem with a belt Primary for a Sportster was adjusting the tension correctly. On a Big Twin you can adjust the Primary belt tension by moving the Transmission backward a bit. On a Sportster, that is not an option. If I remember correctly, the original Sturgis model had twin belts. A drive belt and a Primary belt and the Primary belt was enclosed and I think that it may have been in an oil bath but I am not positive about that issue.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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it shouldnt need adjusting. also youll get rid of some vibration. as for running in oil, well a guy here has an old shovel head and runs a inclosed belt in oil. never had any problems. for that price id get it.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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Yep,I run a primary belt in my 70,with a wet clutch and tranny from a 72.
Heck of alot smoother, no noise, and use non-detergent oil. And,like mentioned,no case damage if it lets go! (I also block off the speedo drive for the same reason)
Its 117 tooth belt, 1 1/2" wide and fits very tight.Also use a clutch "Tamer" and as far as final drive sprockets,51t rear and 23t front. Makes for a comfy ride at 75mph!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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I ran what was probably the first Sporty primary belt drive way back in the '70s. It was on my '72 XLCH. I can't remember the name of the outfit any more - ol' fart CRS, I reckon. The drive was a Gilmer setup, meaning it had square teeth rather than the rounded versions used today. It ran in the oil bath, and the original belt lasted for at least 6 years that I know of. That 6 years included a very strong 77 inch stroker motor, and more than a little street racing. I was told the belt finally broke when the 2nd owner after me took it drag racing. The very first run on the belt I had a bolt come loose inside the primary and make a couple passes around the rear pulley between the clutch hub teeth and the belt. Cleaned the teeth up with some emery paper, reinstalled the belt, and safety-wired the bolt back in place - good to go! Years later the same bolt (used to plug a no longer used hole where the old adjuster mounted) made another couple passes around the rear pulley while I was leaving Wisconsin at the request of some cops near Union Grove. Still no damage to the belt! I usually ran a 23 front and 49 rear sprocket. The rear brake was a disc brake kit that was offered by an Illinois company (Stroicek, maybe?), and was a straight bolt-on deal. It was nice to have a "real" rear brake, and especially nice to be able to change sprocket sizes.
 
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